TOPIC:

Why would they sell these types of wires packaged as they did if you can't splice into them. They came as two wires and you had to cut them in half to make the four.

My manual says you should see about 1.5 Ohms from small post to small post (these would be the primary posts) and about 13,500 Ohms between the two spark plug wires (these would be the secondary posts). You should also measure these places one at a time using the red lead while the black lead is on the coil core which is the piece that mounts the coil to the bike's frame. Those readings should be infinite Ohms.

Any more input on these suppression core wires? Has anyone else used the splicers with these wires? Should I call Z1E and ask them?

Personally I wouldn't put any money into those splicers and old coils. As far as suppression wires, on stock coils, make sure you don't have a resistor cap as well, it will really lower the spark voltage.
the Emgo coils are pretty reasonable to buy and are a good stock replacement.

badrhino wrote: Why would they sell these types of wires packaged as they did if you can't splice into them. They came as two wires and you had to cut them in half to make the four.

Would remove splicers and re-test resistance in secondary winding by measuring ohms with meter probes touching wire cores at ends of stubs from coil.

Then refit just one splicer and re-test.

Then re-fit the other splicer, and re-test.

This testing should show whether one of the splicers is affecting resistance through the secondary wiring.





Good Fortune!

badrhino wrote: ...was still not getting any readings at the plug caps. I unscrewed one end of the splicer and tested from the splicer on both coils and got readings. Below is what the readings were. Are these in spec.?

Left Coil
Primary 1.9 ohms
Secondary (at splice) 15,100 ohms

Right Coil
Primary 1.7 ohms
Secondary (at splice) 15,800 ohms

Now my question is.....why am I not getting anything past the splicer? These are new wires.

These readings look okay, because the coils seem very comparable to each other.

Could be mistaken, but thinking it's okay to use the splicer for connecting solid-core wire (from coil) to new resistor-style wire. Am seeing nothing to indicate otherwise in NGK's website where the splicer is described.

However, it's of course necessary that the splicers be correctly installed. But I don't know how much of an issue that might pose. Or whether there are any fitment instructions available..

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

badrhino wrote: Why would they sell these types of wires packaged as they did if you can't splice into them. They came as two wires and you had to cut them in half to make the four.

Would remove splicers and re-test resistance in secondary winding by measuring ohms with meter probes touching wire cores at ends of stubs from coil.

Then refit just one splicer and re-test.

Then re-fit the other splicer, and re-test.

This testing should show whether one of the splicers is affecting resistance through the secondary wiring.

Good Fortune!

Should all measure the same resistance, with or without the splicers, or with only one splicer.







Good Fortune!

I am getting around 15,000 ohms at the end of the splicer. But when I put the wires on and test the end cap I am getting really high readings like (Left: 74,000) and (Right: 24,000) It makes no sense. Shouldn't the readings be around 5,000. And why would the readings go up instead of down?

Because there is something wrong with the connection of the splice. Take the splices off and read the resistance through each splice by itself. Red on one end of it and black on the other end. This will verify the splice itself isn't introducing the resistance. If it is zero, which it should be, then the problem is in how the wires are being connected to the splice.

Repeat the above test but substitute the plug wires for the splices. If they read zero ohms then its the connection.

badrhino wrote: I am getting around 15,000 ohms at the end of the splicer. But when I put the wires on and test the end cap I am getting really high readings like (Left: 74,000) and (Right: 24,000) It makes no sense. Shouldn't the readings be around 5,000. And why would the readings go up instead of down?

More resistance results in higher ohms. Less resistance results in lower ohms.

Measuring between the splicers shows resistance in the secondary winding inside the coil. And should be the same as measuring the resistance between the cores in the stub ends without the splicers.

Measuring between the caps adds the resistance offered by the resistor plug wires.

24,000Ω on the right is probably okay.
But 74,000Ω on the left seems way too high (perhaps due to faulty connection through the splicer).

For comparison, the stock Z1, with solid core (non-resistor) plug wires and resistor caps, is supposed to measure about 30,000Ω when measured cap to cap, which would include resistance in the secondary winding plus resistance in the stock resistor caps.
Measuring between the plug wire leads, without the resistor caps, would be less resistance.

Good Fortune!

I took the new wires off multiple times and re-installed and same thing or nothing. Finally took them off and tested the new wire it self and those things are junk. You have to hit it just right to get a reading. I finally got them back on and am getting 23,500 ohms out the left coil and 24,000 out of the right coil. These suppression wires def. add more resistance. If I had to do over I would definitely buy solid core wires with resistor caps. What a PITA!

I hope those numbers will work. I guess I will find out tomorrow if that is why one of my cylinders wasn't firing all the time.

Well that didn't help the issue any. Still not getting proper firing in #4. I am waiting on my tools to do a valve adjustment if needed. How come I can take the plug wire off of the #4 plug and sit it on there and it fires better than when it is securely on the plug.

Pardon my ignorance:It's been a while dealing with carbs.... But I also noticed when I had the bike running when you revved the bike up you could see mist come out the back of #4 carb. is that normal or is that the sign of a mis-adjusted valve blowing pressure back out.

badrhino wrote: ... If I had to do over I would definitely buy solid core wires with resistor caps....

Resistance isn't mandatory in the wires, caps or plugs.

If resistance is desired (to reduce electrical interference in radio reception or a sensitive electronic component) , only one form of resistance should be utilized, either wires or caps or plugs.

For example, where resistance is desired, the non-resistant Dyna solid core plug wires (with their integrated non-resistor caps) could be used, along with a resistor spark plug such as NGKBR8ES.

Good Fortune!

badrhino wrote: Well that didn't help the issue any. Still not getting proper firing in #4. I am waiting on my tools to do a valve adjustment if needed. How come I can take the plug wire off of the #4 plug and sit it on there and it fires better than when it is securely on the plug.

Pardon my ignorance:It's been a while dealing with carbs.... But I also noticed when I had the bike running when you revved the bike up you could see mist come out the back of #4 carb. is that normal or is that the sign of a mis-adjusted valve blowing pressure back out.

Two indications that the cylinder is running to rich, probably because the float level is to high.

As resistance increases, current flow decreases while voltage increases.
When you pull the plug cap and just lay it on top the plug the resistance goes up, along with the voltage, which causes a hotter spark, enough to clear the fuel fouled plug and ignite the rich mixture.

The fuel blowing back out of the carb is because the cylinder is not firing.

Ok thanks again guys.

I guess I will check the fuel/float levels again and see if they are still good.

I had to go double check my spark plugs and make sure they weren't resistor plugs. Nope NGK B8ES.

In all honesty I hope it is the fuel/float height causing this, but that would have been the last thing I would have thought since I checked the levels recently.

Here is a video of what is going on. Let me know what you think!

Video shows obvious lack of combustion in #4 cylinder.
Could result from an issue with compression, or spark, or mixture.

COMPRESSION --
Even with a perfect carb, inadequate compression may also reduce the suction necessary to pull mixture from the carb.
A compression test alone isn't sufficient.
Where both dry and wet compression tests on the same cylinder are about equal, a leaking valve seat is suspected as being where the compression is being lost during the compression stroke.
Do check the valve clearances in #4, and assure both clearances are within specs.
If either valve is too tight, set it to specs, and repeat the dry compression test and the wet compression test where both valve clearances are known to be within specs.

SPARK --
With the #4 plug removed from the engine head, with cap attached, and plug base held grounded against the engine head,
turn ignition switch ON, and visibly observe the spark while spinning over the engine.
The engine will probably begin running, which is okay.
Should be healthy fat blue sparks.
Then repeat the same test, using a brand new spark plug.
Sometimes a fuel-fouled plug can exhibit good looking spark when observed, but fail to spark when reinstalled.
Would install a brand new spark plug in #4, and test run the engine to see whether #4 begins combusting.

MIXTURE --
Would confirm fuel level is correct via the clear tube test.
And leave carb alone (for now).

Let us know results of dry and wet compression tests, and whether any necessary valve adjustments have been performed, and observed spark quality, and running performance after installing a brand new plug.

And let us know if any help might be needed with regard to compression testing or valve setting.

VALVES --
Measuring (checking) valve clearance is the easy part. Just remove cam cover; point cam away from the valve; and use a thickness (feeler) gauge to determine amount of clearance existing between the cam base and the shim.

If clearance adjustment is needed, shim removal and replacement is the next step, which isn't difficult, but does require a special tool, plus a shim of the necessary thickness.

Good Fortune!

@Patton. Thanks Again.

I got my valve checking tools(Feeler Gauge, Motion Pro Valve Shim Tool)in the mail today.
I will see if I can get to it this weekend sometime. However I do need to find someone to borrow a compression checker.

badrhino wrote: ...got my valve checking tools(Feeler Gauge, Motion Pro Valve Shim Tool)in the mail today...However I do need to find someone to borrow a compression checker.

When using the Motion Pro tool, I ignore the lever and use only the "bat-wing."

When the bat-wing is correctly inserted, the 17mm fake nut (under the points cover) may be used to carefully rotate the crankshaft, whereby the bucket is held down by the bat-wing after the cam point turns away, which removes pressure of the cam against the shim and leaves space to remove the shim.

Some auto parts stores, such as Auto-Zone for example, will have a compression tester that they loan out to customers.

Good Fortune!

Definitely check compression, and your valve clearances. If compression is low you will need to correct that before anything else.
Does the pipe get hot if you run a higher RPM by blipping the throttle?
Was this a problem that just started by itself or came on suddenly?
What does it do if you feed a bit of Propane into the Airhorn of the Carb, any change? If it catches/ increases RPM, its lean. Vacuum leak or plugged Pilot circuit.