Coils don't match???

A couple of good websites:
www.cyclepsycho.com/kz1000p/kz1000p.html
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99 A shop manual on the Kz1000/Kz1100 bikes

Thanks MFolks. I got both of those from you the first day I was on this great site. The valve clearance numbers match the police suplimentary, clymer manual and the PDF manual.

Cuff wrote: Ok, I went out a bought a tester and found 3.6ohms(cold) and 3.4ohms(hot) on both coils. The pick up coils are both at 450ohms. Plug wires are at 14.7 and 15.2 Kohms and there is 11.88 volts getting to the coils. There seems to be some decent spark at the plugs.

I'm at a loss because everthing electrical checks out. I'm starting to think it might be the old carb boots (manifolds) but would they run fine cold and just start acting up once the bike is warm?

I should add this problem has gradually gotten worse over the past month.

The loss of power, sputtering, bogging down and just crappy running at temp is getting to me.

11.88 volts getting to the coils--- For this bike, 11.88 volts is insufficient with any coil on any ignition, even with perfect coils and perfect ignition.

Dyna-S ignition doesn't use the oem igniter.

Dyna green 3 ohm coils are recommended when using Dyna-S ignition.

The ballast resistor isn't used with Dyna green 3 ohm coils and Dyna-S ignition.

Existing coils may be okay with the oem i.c. igniter ignition and simply not receiving enough voltage. See below excerpt from FSM.

It's possible for a defective coil to begin failing at higher temps.

Ideally, voltage being received at coil should match battery voltage.

Am wondering if battery isn't up to snuff, for whatever reason.

Would service battery by assuring fluid levels at correct, charge it overnight, and then have it load tested.

Battery may be failing to hold a charge.

Or perhaps the bike's charging system is weak, for whatever reason, and failing to keep the battery fully charged.

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton. After sleeping on it I'm going to chalk up the low voltage to testing the bike for a while without charging. The battery is quite good and brand new.

So, after charging the battery we're at 12.2 volts everywhere along the ignition system. I buffed down (good cleaning realy) the valve shims that were .02mm tight and we're good there now. I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders came in at 155-165.

The bike now does not have enough spark to run cyliners 1 and 4, not even cold. I switched around the two coils hoping it was just a bad coil. No such luck. I'm now looking in the direction of the igniter. Not a fun part to replace. Might just make my own GM Hei system as mentioned above if my local use parts shop is of no help. Going to be checking the wires under the factory wrap coming out of the igniter, mostly as a time killer until the shop opens up in the morning, not expecting to find anything wrong but who knows.

I live this bike to death and will get to the end sooner than later, but damn, it's like a crazy girlfriend. Lots of fun but very expensive and tempormental. You never know when a half cooked bunny will end up in a pot on the stove.:lol:

So, I made this relay mod www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_co...view&id=12&Itemid=26 mentioned in another thread and get very good power to both coils. I'm now running on cylinders 1,3 and 4. Three is not as hot ast 1 and 4. Coils come in on tuesday and I'm starting to think the ignitor should be fine. Has anyone heard of an ic ignitor moving a problem around? Shouldn't they just work or not?

All other grounds and power wires check out so if coils don't fix my running issues...:huh:

spend some time going through your wiring looking for loose/dirty connections,that relay is a temp fix at best.

I had that exact problem last week and finally replaced the ignition module on the engine.

After the bike started it was down on two cylinders.I could ride it a mile and the bike ran fine.

I had a bad ignition module.

I have had IC ignitors go bad. Someone might know how to check that. Roy

This is from the FSM,



Try measuring and see what you come up with.

Thanks for the tip MH but I'm having a tough time getting any reading from the IC Ignitor. I did however find this in the FSM regarding coil testing. According to the specs I shouldn't be able to get any resistance reading from the coil wires to either primary coil leads. There was a small reading on the 2-3 coil on the #3 plug wire. Looks like new coils tomorrow should be my salvation.

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS, any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Hey there and thanks to all who helped out. Got new coils in the bike now and she's never ran better. This issue has also put a fire under my ass to take care of those little things like checking wires, hoses and connections. Of note the bad coil was intermittent after all and was testing fine ( and running fine) but needed to be retired for reliability. Again, thanks.