TOPIC:

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

...checked float levels, perfect 23.5mm...hit the starter button -- she turns over just like a 17,300 mile Kawasaki KZ should....

The measured float height is nice to know, but isn't the critical measurement.

Actual fuel level inside the float bowl is the critical measurement. The terminology is "service fuel level."

The service fuel level is measured by means of the clear tube test, which reveals the true fuel level inside the bowl, regardless of the measured float height.

Even where measured float heights are exactly the same in all four carbs, the service fuel levels often widely vary, which is undesirable, because all the fuel levels should meet specs as measured by the clear tube test, regardless of differences in the measured float heights.

The carb circuits draw fuel based on fuel level, and couldn't care less about measured float height during reassembly.

And yes, the carbs seem like a piece of cake after the all aggravations recently suffered with the fuel injection system on the Z1 Classic.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

The carb circuits draw fuel based on fuel level, and couldn't care less about measured float height during reassembly.

And yes, the carbs seem like a piece of cake after the all aggravations recently suffered with the fuel injection system on the Z1 Classic.

Good Fortune!

I use the float height as a 'rough draft,' when I'm in this 'discovery mode' with a revival bike situation, I have one objective: find out if the motor runs.

Then I get to fine adjustments. Because you're spot on, the tube test on the bench is the fine adjustment. That will come later if she runs.

I will not complain any more about carbs and the challenge of getting them on/off with stock intakes and stock airbox parts. I cant believe I used to think that was a p.i.t.a. Yesterday I had them carbs off/unstuck/insides checked over/back on the bike in 90 minutes.

Them carbs are a godsend. Put 'em on they work usually.

IT IS ALIVE

So this is a welcome break from my 1979 Kz650 SR which for all I know is still motor-stuck, have not checked my '79 in a week.

This '81 Kz650 CSR 650, 17,300 miles runs and I took it for a ride. I would say this revival is going better than my Z1 and the '79 650, only been a few days and she run like new almost.

So what I'm working with is a bike that is all stock and it needs cosmetic attention but also the front end feels a bit loosy-goosy.

I am thinking about pulling the forks off to check the steering stem bearings and the wheel bearings.

By the way I now know what 100hp on my Z1 really feels like since this one is around 65hp apparently. Feels like she weighs just about as much too.

Other thing I noticed: lots of oil blow-by when she first come to life. Rode it around about 10 minutes no more blow by.

Just what is the fun of buying an old vintage Kz if she is already running I might ask. There is a satisfaction of taking a bike someone just wanted out of the garage because he could not make it go and turning it into a road burner.

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

...lots of oil blow-by when she first come to life. Rode it around about 10 minutes no more blow by....

Often results from old hardened valve stem seals, and usually doesn't hurt anything.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

...lots of oil blow-by when she first come to life. Rode it around about 10 minutes no more blow by....

Often results from old hardened valve stem seals, and usually doesn't hurt anything.

Good Fortune!

It seems like it got better after a ride! It really smoked oil-smoke a bit when it first ran -- I have to assume its stuck rings and hardened valve stem seals as you suggest, and I hope it stays okay, bike only has 17,300 but then again it is 30 years old now.

Here is a picture after a bath. The seat has to go, it is too low and looks like a 'bobber', which are fine but not my style.

lookes like my first bike it was a 81 kz650 csr i repainted mine green and put drag bars on. but someone else decided they wanted it more than i did and took it out of my driveway with out permission and i never saw it again.

if you get rid of the seat ill take it. thanks

Could someone please post the attachment again for the diagram of where to hook the hotwire from the positive terminals to the coils. What part of the coils should the wire be hooked to? Before the coil?

The Brown wire on the key Switch or the red/yellow on the coil connector Need 12V for the ignition hot wiring.

Thank you very much! I have one last question, can it be connected with the brown/yellow coil connection on the coil itself?

1981 KZ650-H1 CSR wiring diagram.

i.imgur.com/nxc8yZE.jpg


...

From the positive terminals, I run two wires to each coil , and where do I connect them to the coil? Or yellow/red wire?