Help Me Please....

So riding to work on a long straight riding normally bike starts to bog like it drops down to two cylinders. Lets out a loud back fire and dies... Now earlier had to use the battery tender and kick start seemed to run fine. Got the bike to my dealer (where I work) and put a tender on the battery got it to start again, same result hard start (really hard) and sounded like two cylinders...

Two weeks later...

Put a brand new battery and plugs in to try again...

still nothing, Pull a plug and check spark nothing...

pull the ignition cover turn the key on, manually turn crank to check timing and power to coils. As soon as I turn the key on the left pick up on my newish dyna s ignition starts producing a thick white smoke??? :ohmy:

The head light also doesn't power up like it did before? So its something electrical and I think I just fried my ignition

Any words of advice?

im no sparky by any nature, but seems like something def shorted out. any bare wires anywhere, or a small cut in the insulation?

Yikes!

Firstly, I feel for you man, that sucks.

This deffinately requires some time to go through the wiring (via the manual/diagram) and carefully check all connections/wires for condition.

Start with charging circuit, then ignition...

Remove the battery and leave it out until you have resolved the issue, less you burn something else out with a bad cross connection/ground or something...
An ohm meter will be all you'll need to check for continuity of the circuits.

Best of luck!

PS. Your wiring diag can be found under the KZ information tab at the top of this page, under filebase.

start with a bible/book on your bike.look in the.back for wiring diagram pages.notice wire colors some times have 2 colors, or letters..follow them wires,with a 12 volt tester.hot for hot,ground for ground,it takes a while to do,but you can save on that shop bill,by having that book on your bike..you can check what they will..

Try this troubleshooting procedure:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

bad coil ???? sometimes they check good and fail when they warm up, that would explain 2 cylinders dropping

Bad coil could also explain the Dyna failing. I don't think they have internal protection sufficient to protect their high current drivers to the coil primary in case the coil shorts to 12V.

IMHO, if they are old coils, they need to get punted regardless. Coils don't age well.

The coils, wires and ignition are less than 2 yrs and 5k miles old? All dyna and good product? I think everyone is probably right with the short somewhere. Best time of year to be riding in south west fl too...

Back to the garage and time to chase more wiring demons...

I just dont understand how the ignition pick up is smoking. Also why for the last 5k its been perfect.

a loose connector or a wire grounded /exposed to the frame?

is what caused me problems like that in the past....worse case take of the wiring harness and reroute it checking each connection for any sign of trouble as you go....:blink:

So did some diag finally... Headlight no op simply blown bulb

As for the spark and no run...

My #2#3 cylinder coil cycles power normal as I turn the crank but the #1 #4 coil stays constant power so... Ignition melt down? and the pick up on the 1-4 is just sending power all the time? I have 3 sets of coils all the same dyna green and ohms all test good.

sort of just guessing here. The wiring is less then two years old on the whole bike and fully inspected for continuity and cuts or frays. The only thing I can find abnormal is the one coil getting power if the ignition is on all the time on both posts no matter crank position? So did I just fry my ignition and the pick ups are not working correctly?

While ignition switch is ON, each coil is supposed to receive continuous battery++ power.

[Click on image to enlarge view.]



Good Fortune!

pull the ignition cover turn the key on, manually turn crank to check timing and power to coils. As soon as I turn the key on the left pick up on my newish dyna s ignition starts producing a thick white smoke??? :ohmy:

The head light also doesn't power up like it did before? So its something electrical and I think I just fried my ignition

Any words of advice?[/quote]

hope you find it but (smoke! when you let the smoke out of elect. parts it usualy means they r done)

and maby that short in the pickups caused another one somewhere in the harness?