Bike shuts down with no warning

A couple things:

- batteries are somewhat affected by really cold weather (17 degrees is cold)

- when you manage to get it running again, since you're going to get an affordable multimeter anyway, put your meter in 'DC Volts' mode and rev the engine to about 3000rpm and make sure you see at least 14 volts across battery terminals -- 14 or more volts tells you your charging circuit is probably working fine

- 'hard starting' can be caused by valves that need adjusting. I have a GS1000 and it went from taking 30 seconds or more to start to starting immediately upon pushing the 'start' button -- the valve clearances were WAY out of spec. I fixed that and man what a difference. Same holds for your bike.


Unfortunately I'm having the same 'engine dying' problem on my 1980 kz1000 Z1 Classic. Really sucks. Mine is a bit different in symptoms but same result, engine dies.

Once you get your volt meter, you'll be on your way.

Sounds like your charging system (stator or rectifier/regulator unit) is failing/failed.

Keep us posted.

had it happen to me on two different bikes
first one was the ignition key was worn out
the second was a crimped wire
u never know till u know

look at the key switch, had kind of the same issue on the 771000, it would just die, turn it off then on and it would fire right back up, I ordered a new one from z1, and when I took the old one out, several of the wires were loose, may have been able to reattach them but a new one was in hand, and was a real easy fix

sometimes the connections inside the key cylinder wear down as well

Ok guys,she is running again.It was A FUSE! After all this time down and me not listening,I bought all new fuses today and replaced them all and the bike fired up,all electrical
works and put 50 miles on her.

NOW....how do I go about finding why the fuse blowed?

I was thinking of spending the money at REDLINE on a all new
complete wiring harness.

suggestions and feedback.....

Thanks!

I think it was just the age of glass tube type fuse. The fusable link is soldered to the metal end caps, and when old sometimes when they get hot the solder on them gets iffy and the connection is broken, then when they cool the connection is made again. As someone else said it is a good idea to replace this type of fuse.

A forum member "Otakar" has replaced the glass tubed fuse with the newer, automotive "Blade style" fuses.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html