Still having charging problems!

:laugh: The battery continues to discharge because 13.6V is barely floating the battery, and when idling at 12.5 or less, its actually discharging.

Make sure you have a good ground to frame, engine, and the R/R ground lead.

Is the R/R new, or an old used unit? The new ones idle at 13+, and hit 14.5V right away at 3500 and never go higher.

Perhaps one of your stator windings is grounded/burnin out. Detectable by checking with ohm meter for continuity to ground. Connect to any 1 of three yellow wires and ground. If meter moves/reads anything than that winding is bad/going.

ALSO... BAD batteries can cause all sorts of weird crap. (But this sounds like R/R to me...)
Thankfully, you can just pop in a new battery and eliminate that issue!

GL.

hmmm guys... "These readings are with everything on."...

What are the voltage measurements with lights off?
As depicted in my manual anyways for my KZ900, the 14-14.5Vdc @ 4Krpm is with all accessories/lights off....

For testing, disconnect harness plugs to lights and such, measure battery voltage, run it for awhile 10-20miles), re-measure battery voltage and see if it still drains the battery....

Same time, run through the complete electrical test where panel connectors are disconnected in some of the measurements, may help you isolate it down to a faulty component...

As for the battery, junk it already...

Old Man Rock wrote:

hmmm guys... "These readings are with everything on."...

What are the voltage measurements with lights off?
As depicted in my manual anyways for my KZ900, the 14-14.5Vdc @ 4Krpm is with all accessories/lights off....

For testing, disconnect harness plugs to lights and such, measure battery voltage, run it for awhile 10-20miles), re-measure battery voltage and see if it still drains the battery....

Same time, run through the complete electrical test where panel connectors are disconnected in some of the measurements, may help you isolate it down to a faulty component...

As for the battery, junk it already...

Agree about battery for sure.

The bike still needs to get 14.5V or better to charge with everything turned on + accessories added to the system.

If there is a large drop/difference between headlight on/off then there is an underlying wiring/connectivity issue.

The boys in blue have a serious problem with people riding around no headlight up here in Can. It's a big fine. Be sure to know the laws of your state/place.

Check all wiring - Good advise!

"needs to get 14.5V or better to charge with everything turned on + accessories added to the system."..

In an ideal charging system, true...

But considering the unknowns here...

Example: 35Watt headlight @ 12Vdc equates to 2.916amp draw... If he has an H4 55w bulb in place... 4.583amp draw!!! Whoa...

Same time,for t-shooting/diagnosing his situation (not saying leave it that way by any means), if his electrical system is to spec with no accessories/lights on but not when on, this isolates the problem child down to a minimum few locations...

I think this could be of some use, and the price is great:
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Digital-Voltage-...3?pt=Car_Audio_Video

Also you may want to check this thread, if you want:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=4&id=389324

And this for a full AMP Test of your system this info may help for using a AMP meter:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=4&id=388730


You can fix it as it sounds like you have already checked a lot, did you charge and then load test that battery you fixed the post on?

Edit: Check for voltage drop at your connectors, pay close attention to where the red/ white wire connects at a 3 wire bullet connection junction. This is where the R/R wire joins the Batt +,(AT the Solenoid post), and the load feed to the system at the fuse panel. You want to make sure there are no signs of heat here, and no voltage drop from the R/R side to Batt wire.
I soldered these 3 together on my 1000.

Old Man Rock wrote:

"needs to get 14.5V or better to charge with everything turned on + accessories added to the system."..

In an ideal charging system, true...

But considering the unknowns here...

Example: 35Watt headlight @ 12Vdc equates to 2.916amp draw... If he has an H4 55w bulb in place... 4.583amp draw!!! Whoa...

Same time,for t-shooting/diagnosing his situation (not saying leave it that way by any means), if his electrical system is to spec with no accessories/lights on but not when on, this isolates the problem child down to a minimum few locations...

...agreed.

Does the reg/rec have a brown wire? Is the reg/rec a used unit? If yes to both:

To rule out the regulator portion of the reg/rec, you can try to run it with the reg/rec brown wire disconncted. Then the regulator detection circuit will be out of the picture. Very carefully monitor the battery voltage as you run it. If it gets up near 15, drop the RPMs immediately.

The reason for this test is to eliminate the regulator's detection circuit as a possible problem. I've had at least two old reg/rec's that failed by lowering voltage sooner than it should. The rectifier should still work as usual.