Schematic of voltage regulator/rectifier?

One last thing I should add since it's pretty important; the 3 phases of the alternator are not exactly equal. Some produce a little more power than the others. As the RPMs go up, and power output goes up, the SCR's transition from being idle to shunting away the current. As the voltage nears the upper limit, some phases get shunted and some don't depending on how powerful they are. Then, as the voltage goes up further, all phases may end up getting shunted equally. During the transition, it seems it's always the same phase getting shunted while the others do not. This puts more stress on that single SCR. The factory unit does this and so does mine.

Earlier KZ reg/recs had the SCR's daisy chained so if the "key" SCR gets shunted, the other two would follow in succession. This splits up the shunting load much more evenly, but has the drawback that the battery voltage will have more ripple on it.

I'm not sure why Kawasaki changed the arrangement on this, but maybe they felt the later SCR's were strong enough to handle the extra shunting duty.

For those who would like to see what the waveforms look like on the battery voltage and the phase wires, here are some screenshots I took some years ago.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/GPZAltn...rnatorWaveforms.html

Are there any small car regulator/rectifier units that could be adapted to work?

polkat wrote:

Are there any small car regulator/rectifier units that could be adapted to work?

There are no cars I know of that use the SCR shunt regulation method. Cars use a regulator that modulates the current through the armature winding to control alternator output. Whole different method.

For KZ's with a permanent-magnet alternators (which use the shunt regulators), the only part of the car charging system you could use would be the rectifier portion. But you'd still need a regulator.

This website....

www.scribd.com/doc/29110640/Home-Made-Regulator-Rectifier

...describes just what I'm asking about. It uses a mid-70's Ford pickup regulator (with your own homemade rectifier) for three phase motorcycle regulation. The problem is that the writer was not quite clear about which wires from a rectifier (2 of course) go to which terminals on the Ford regulator, the battery + side, and the voltage signal.

If anyone gets a chance, can they look at it and explain the wiring to me? Thanks!

polkat wrote:

This website....

www.scribd.com/doc/29110640/Home-Made-Regulator-Rectifier

...describes just what I'm asking about. It uses a mid-70's Ford pickup regulator (with your own homemade rectifier) for three phase motorcycle regulation. The problem is that the writer was not quite clear about which wires from a rectifier (2 of course) go to which terminals on the Ford regulator, the battery + side, and the voltage signal.

If anyone gets a chance, can they look at it and explain the wiring to me? Thanks!

As we've said, a car or truck regulator will not work on a pemanent magnet alternator. That link says it will work for any 3-phase system, but that is not true. It only works on systems that have a field coil type alternator. That would work on the 77 KZ650, some KZ400's, and a few other KZ's, but NOT the 82 KZ750 H2.

That's the key difference: for simpl.icity, bikes use a permanent magnet spinning in a coil and shunt regulation is the simplest regulator. Car alternators have a coil spinning inside another coil. You can easily regulate by adjusting the small current in the armature to control the big current in the field coils.

Okay, I've been reading up on it a little bit, and understand why the above circuit won't work on this bike (or at least I think I do). I'm too poor (unemployed but not quite homeless) to buy an aftermarket unit, and I'm tired of buying cheap, already dead units off Ebay.

So what can I do? It's no problem for me to build a rectifier to give me a single DC voltage from the alternator's three phase yellow wires, but is there a simple way to regulate that output? Something I can buy cheaply, or is not too expensive or complicated for me to build?

Any further suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI don't think you're going to get a brand new reg/rec for much cheaper than about $75. In the off season, you can find used ones for around $10. Buy two or three and hope one works. Or you can try to price out the parts list on the schematic I provided, but with a rectifier, I'm pretty sure you won't do much better than about $60 or $70.

Right now, this is about the best you're going to do, but because it's probably 30+ years old, if there are capacitors in it, they may be bad even without being used.

Here's one regulator I had working, but never developed it because it would have cost more than Oregon unit and/or the ebay ones. It could probably be simplified further and would definitely need a lot more real-world testing.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/RegRec/GPZvRegMagnetField.html

The rectifier portion is standard. You can save power on the rectifier if you use germanium or selenium instead of silicon. Here's a simple silicon rectifier.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/RegRec/...3phaseRectifier.html [/quote]

its can use for suzuki bandit 400?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThis any good?
At 1.5662 dollars to the pound=$44.16

Or
Its in America.
Using another rectifier first you need to get the polarity of the diodes correct if using a seperate single phase reg/rec afterwards because you have 2 sets of rectifier diodes in circuit.