Dyna DRL-300 RPM Limiter not working.

I just hooked up my brand new DRL-300 Limiter. I was on the phone with Dyna before I bought it and they assured me that it will work with my ignition. I just hooked it up EXACTLY according to the instructions and it dose absolutely nothing.
It is on my GPz1150 "J" motor with the stock Kawasaki ignition and Dyna coils. I put the switches just as the instructions stated #1 OFF #2 ON #3 ON for the four pulses in two revolutions. Red wire is hooked to the plus wire on one of the coils and the blue and white wires are hooked to the pulsing wires on each coil according to the instructions. As per instructions I set the RPM limit to 6000 revs and wen to try it out. The engine had no problem going to 7-8-9-10K in first gear. WTF is going on with this POS. Or am I that stupid? (If the later is the case, please do not answer the question. I'm already POd as is.)

No one here has ever used the Dyna RPM limiter?

Never used the dYNA,BUT ONE THOUGHT TO CONSIDER:dID U SET IT AT A HIGHER RPM TO SEE IF IT WOULD WORK THERE? lIKE MAYBE 9000 rpm?Sorry for the caps,its early and on my first cuppa joe.bj

Otto.... I just researched the instructions off the web for review....

Black = Ground
Red = Vdc
White = Pulse conductor (EI/coil whatever)

Blue conductor supposed to be terminated to kill switch (open ground)... You wrote you have it to a pulse...:S
Maybe I'm just miss understanding...

Have you tried different switch configurations for different rpm ranges...

OMR

That is the one for the CDI ignition. I was told by Dyna that the stock Kawasaki system is an Inductive ignition and that was the the one I bought. They have two, a DRL-300 and a DRL-300CDI. I have the one for the Inductive Ignition, the DRL-300. When I did the research on the web last night to look up the difference between the Inductive and CDI ignitions, it indeed looks like the standard IC ignitions we use are Inductive, including the Dyna-S, which is what the guy at Dyna told me before i bought the box.

Trying to decide how much to reduce this thing so i can pos it.

Here are the instructions.

COil (-) conductors are "functionally" the same potential but you may want to try a different conductor..

The instructions also mention cutting the orange jumper due to uneven firing angles, have you tried that yet?
Obviously, would have to change your switch settings....

Out of curiosity, I get why this option would be deemed important on a drag/racing bike but on your beauty or is this for another bike of yours?

OMR

This is for the GPz. I have over-revd it a couple of times. This thing has so much torque on top that it goes from 7500 to 10500 in the blink of an eye. I just don't want to do any damage. I have done it too often and so far I've been lucky. I just bought it as an insurance policy.
I have the switches set for four pulses for two revs. I have double and triple checked it.

I was really looking forward to Lou pitching in here. The experience he has with ignitions might help.

Pm him no doubt....

The instructions seem fairly straight forward... Hell, snip the orange jumper, nothing to lose... Can't hurt it ...

"7500 to 10500 in the blink of an eye"...
A little miss shift old man? :woohoo:

Old Man Rock wrote:

"7500 to 10500 in the blink of an eye"...
A little miss shift old man? :woohoo:

I wish! In first threw third that is the fact. I just like the idea of having a 9.5K limiter. And people keep on telling me how slow CV carbs are to react. SHISH

Well, Off to my brothers for a 4th BBQ.