How many different stators for the KZ650?

I will do the tests, It might take me a few days though as I work two jobs and have very little free time.

I have the rotor and cover for the perm. mag set up already (I actually have a couple I think)

I do not know if I have resistor wires or not, I replaced the wired 2 years ago when I did the coils. Do I need resistor wires AND caps or just one of the two? If there is an easy way to check I will check if not I will just order a new set from Jeff.

I do run a dyna S

I do use the coil mod.

My wiring harness is a mess I have found numerous sections where the wire is corroded under the insulation. I have unexplained voltage drops even thought all my connections look clean... My headlight is dim at best. I have always planned on one day making a new harness from scratch. Maybe the time is now.

Yeah, I always rewire any bike I get. I can spend 10 hours troubleshooting 10 problems, or I can spend a couple hours replacing everything and have no headaches troubleshooting.

With old ratty wiring, it's like playing whack-a-mole. Fix one spot... another pops up.

I realize re-wiring is not for everyone, though. I keep it very minimal. If you want to keep all the accessories and gauges, it takes much longer to re-wire.

The Dyna S with 3 ohm coils will use around 8.5 amps where the stock points used about 3.25 amps (assuming 13v). You can see there is a lot of wattage going into the ignition. That could be where you are losing some electric power. But with bad wiring, there is no way to speculate until it's gone through.

You only need resistor wires OR plugs OR caps, but not more than one. You might be able to look up what wires you have. I prefer resistor wire as that seems more reliable than resistor caps or plugs.

Let me know if you want a simplified schematic. it makes understanding the circuits easier than the wiring diagram does. A schematic shows the circuit operation, the wiring diagram shows component and wire layout, but can be confusing.

well I have been putting off the wiring until I get the bike where I want it...

I really want a Koso tach/speedo, updated stitches (i figured I would do it when I did the front end) and dual headlights.

realistically however I think it is time now and I can always add on as needed.



How do you go about your re-wires? I planned on laying out the old harness and just copying it (except where alterations are needed for example adding in the o2 sensor)

Do you re-wire in the bike? I am not going to Lie I hate electrical stuff it is all black magic to me.

Ok, lets do it...

I want to keep my gauge lights and dash but some of the "features" like the hazard lights are easily cut.

Post up the wiring schematic and let me know (if you can) how many colors/connectors I will need to order.

Do you have a type of connector that you recommend? I would imagine that in 30 years something better has been developed but all I can find are replacements for the originals.



Once I know what I need I will make a shopping list and get started. I see that Z1E now offers about 20 different colors of wire so that makes it nice.

Thanks for all the help Loud!

If you are going to keep the gauges etc, it gets a lot more complicated. I only know the core electric for the bike. All of the minutia for every model would be too much to keep track of.

However, it's much easier to add the gauges etc once the main bike is wired correctly, especially if you are going to get aftermarket gauges anyway.

I wouldn't waste time looking at, and copying, the old harness. It would be more informative to just stare at the factory wiring diagram, which you should have handy somewhere.

The schematic I will draw is to show the electric principles, but does not really show the layout. You will determine the layout based on how your bike is setup.

The trickiest part is getting wiring from the frame to the steering without it binding or rubbing. There, it's best to see how the factory did it and do your similarly there. You want the wires to go nearest the turning center to minimize movement.

Don't start cutting anything until you fully understand the principles. Once you do, you won't have to worry about the old harness.

After I post the schematic, ask all the questions you want until it's all straight in your head. Then start to pull the harness (without cutting if possible). I'll probably post it in the Mattylight thread to keep them all in the same place. It will just be the basic start/ignition/charge setup, then later lights gauges etc will attach to the core schematic. That way it will grow in sections so you don't have to learn it all at once.

I'll start a new thread so we stop hijacking this one. Maybe if I sweet talk a mod, I can get one to move some of these posts to the new thread.

Sometimes I will reuse some little bits of the original harness here and there just to save time etc., but only if the little bit is in really good shape. I usually use some of the small sub assemblies, like the wires on the brake light switches, handle bar switches etc. I only really remove the main harness, not all of the small subs unless they are messed up. I also re-configure the main ignition switch so that the contacts get doubled up for redundant backup. But this elimininates the parking light feature, (which most of us don't use).

Mostly I use individual spade connectors. I use the cheap ones available at Menards or Radio Shack. I like the menards ones better. But the trick is to use the right tool. A cheap crimp tool is usually the down fall of the connections. These two tools are expensive, but are way cheaper than paying someone else to do it.

Stripmaster
Ratchet Crimper

I keep the soldering to a minimum on any bit of the harness that may move. I try to keep the soldering only on main harness junctions that will be strapped to the frame so they don't move. Wire is flexible, but will last many time longer if it does not move. The only part that should move is at the steering end.