Problem with Tail and Brake Light!!! 82 KZ 550

Hey guys. I got me a little bike to work on. I don't know what I'm doing but that has never stopped me before. Its an '82 KZ 550 A3. I dont think it really matters but thought you might want a mental image.

Anyways here is the deal. It is running now. Very well I might and thanks to you guys's forum. I just had to take the carb apart and clean it. The last thing I need help with (well for now) I couldn't really find any post that helped. I'm not saying there isn't one there just that I'm too stupid or lazy to find it. I need this bike for transportation for like 20 miles round trip a day ASAP.

So here is where I'm at. Running tail light or brake light doesn't work. The fuse seems to be good. I'm getting good voltage on the other side of it. Different topic, but what is the small fuse box for. There is the big one with 3 fuses (main, head, and tail), and then there is a smaller box to the left. Im not sure what this one is. Has a 10 amp fuse. There is a wire coming out of this box that isn't hooked to anything.

Anyways, both of the bulbs look good (elements are in tact). I would be very grateful for info on where to go from here. I have most basic tools and a decent multimeter (doesn't mean I know how to use it). If you can give me some help or point me to help I would appreciate it.

Thanks Guys

If you have it... Post the wiring diagram...

In reference to battery/frame ground, set your meter up for Vdc @ 20Vdc range if not auto ranging...

Place Black probe on ground...
Insure you rear housing has proper grounding to frame.
Insure frame is properly grounded.

Measure for +12Vdc with lights turned on on the conductor connections.

Or remove the lamp bulb, measure for +12Vdc on the center bulb contact of the lamp housing itself.

If not present then +12Vdc not getting to the rear brake light housing. Since both are not operating, best assumption is +12Vdc connection is missing from harness, ignition/light switch...

Would need the wiring diagram to help you further...

OMR

Hey man thanks for your help. Here is an adobe of the diagram.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=102&Itemid=108

Nope.. No attachment...

What is the exact model of your 1982 KZ550? A3....

The small fuse box is probably for accessories.
On my 81 650 one accessory lead terminates in the headlite bucket,
the other is under the seat.

Sorry, I'm an idiot. Yes its an '82 kz550 A3.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=102&Itemid=108

I just checked the bulb contacts on auto 12v. They arent getting juice.

Where does the second one go under the seat. What is it for? Mine is just hanging out the box.

I was mistaken. Its an 82 C3 not an A3. It has the two bulb design but they both have tail and brake elements.

Here is the diagram.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=179&Itemid=108

Thanks guys

For most Kawasaki's the following color code applies to the running/stop light circuit:

RED,running or tail light circuit.
BLUE,(sometimes with a RED stripe) the brake light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

If no voltage to the tail light, check the connections and the fuses for corrosion.The older glass tubed fuses can look good but have failed internally.

---

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.
9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73805&search=y

The second smaller fuse box is for accessories (as was mentioned). You can ignore that fuse box.

are you only missing the tail and brake light? Nothing else? What about front marker lights... are they on when you turn the bike on? What about your gauge lights... are they on when you turn the bike on?

If all of those things are NOT on, then try to replace the 10 amp fuse (connected to the brown wire and red/blue wire).

If that does not fix it, then it may be in the ignition switch. Pull that fuse back out and measure the voltage on both of the fuse terminals individually.

If all of those other things are on, then it's more likely the ground connection on the rear tail light assembly.

Just to clarify... the accessory leads are there so that you can add extra stuff to the bike. Generally, they go unused, so there's usually nothing connected to them. I would assume that you could treat those fuses as spares.

As for the tail lite... Did you check the bulbs?

PS: please note that modern bulbs may not work right w the old turn signal flasher. One fix mentioned is to use a heavy duty trailer flasher from the auto parts store.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the help guys. All forums are not created equal, and this one really stands out.

So, I got the tail and brake lights working. I found some bullet quick connects in the fender. They really looked like shit. I gave them a good cleaning with alcohol and brasso, but no luck. I just cut them out and but some butt connectors in their place. Presto, I have lights. I fugure if I ever need quick connects on there maybe I will have some by then.

So of course with that being fixed I have new problems. The first one is already fixed (or so I thought). The float on the #4 carb was sticking and overflowing fuel. I took you guy's advice and just tried some Seafoam. I thought it worked, but it didn't. So now I just gotta go into the carbs tonight. So hopefully a little time and some carb cleaner will really fix this problem.

Now for what I'm not sure about. When I go to crank it up, sometimes the starter is going and sometimes its not. I fugure its either the starter/solenoid, or the starter overide switch in the clutch.

Any ideas on the best way to figure this out. Remember I have basic tools and a decent multimeter.

Thanks guys. If I can get this sucker going by monday you guys will have literally saved my life.