Dyna Ignition Systems – Which one is best?

As far as the Dyna S goes...... get it!!! Best thing you can do for your bike! Check your voltage at the coils and if low, clean ALL connections in between and re-check. If no improvement then do the coil mod. Takes about an hour and depending on what's at hand will cost less than $20. I have the mod and a Dyna. My bike pretty much starts before my finger is off the starter button! But I did a lot of things all at once (carb rebuild, carb holders, Dyna, coil mod, plugs, coils and wires, etc) but have to think that the combination of coil mod and Dyna made a big difference in starting. Let us know....

I have used the Dyna III on several bikes and its works just fine. Better starting, no points to mess with, it does still use the stock advance system so you will still need to lube and clean that (and you will be stuck with the stock ignition curve). It also has an extra black box that you will have to mount. It does not include a rev-limiter.

I have also used the Dyna S system on a few bikes and it has the same features and problems as the III but is a bit cleaner to install because the whole system fits under the stock ignition cover.
These systems are both great for a stock or near stock bike used on the street. You will be able to find either for under $150. Dyna's tech support is great, so buy new if you can.
I have one of the Dyna 2000 systems on my FJ1200 and its got some very nice features! It has an adjustable rev limiter, I set it lower for street riding and higher when I take it to a track day or track school. It has several advance curves, this is good to have because of differences in fuel quality and riding temps. It gets hot here in Cincinnati and the high temps make my FJ ping, so its nice to turn a switch and use a slower advance rate. It does not use the stock mechanical ignition advancer. It has a built in diagnostic feature that can help with finding and fixing problems. It has a built in timing light.
It does cost $400 and the black box (actually its a blue box) is about the size of a blackberry so it takes a bit of work to mount cleanly.
I like it and use some of the features. I will be buying a 2000 system for my 1980 KZ1000 and one for my Z1R.
I also use the coil mod, and recommend it. Its cheep, it improves cold starting, mileage, and ridability.
If you upgrade the coils, you can use Dyna's suppression plug wires and get away from those unreliable resister spark plug caps that are used with the stock coils.

I have used the Dyna S for several riding seasons with no problems.

On my bike the combination of Dyna S (DS2-2), Dyna Green 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1) and the Coil Re-powering Mod have made a tremendous improvement in starting, warm-up time and reliability.

The Coil Re-powering Mod has become controversial in the last year. IMHO, not because it does not usually deliver as advertised but rather that it hides poor Kill Switch and Clutch interlock Switch contact problems, poor connector contact problems and even poor wire conductivity problems. Again, IMHO, when you can or want to, fixing the underlying problem is a good idea. I voted with my time and wallet (all $10.00 USD) and cleaned up my contacts and then added the Coil Re-powering Mod and 12 AWG Red wire because I wanted full + Battery voltage at the Coil(s) input with near zero voltage drop between them.

This is how I did mine LINK

Others have voted with their time and their money to clean up or repair or replace the switches and or contacts.

Your dime so your choice.

Best of success,
Bill

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

... when you can or want to, fixing the underlying problem is a good idea.

So what exactly is the underlying problem then? 30 year old wires?

Well in a word, yes. :dry:

Except, it's more like 30-year old wir

ing

. As said above the causes can be:
- 1) Switch internal contact corrosion...
- 2) Connector contact corrosion...
- 3) In some cases too many internally broken and or corroded copper wire strands.

Best of success,
Bill