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She no start...Electrical help please!
- MentalMike
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I replaced the relay with a new one and got same thing at first. Pissed, I walked away and returned the next day. This time she cranked for a bit, but didn't fire, which I expected because it's cold. Tried again and the relay started clicking from that point on and never once was I able to get her to crank again. :S :woohoo:
I replaced the relay again with a known good one and still no change.
I've checked all fuses - good
12v from the battery - good
All connections and ground - good
Starter Lockout switch - good
Starter switch - good
I'm thinking the next thing to check is the starter, but before I pull it, isn't there a way to bypass the relay and jump straight to the starter?
Not wanting to fry my electrical system on my bike, I thought I'd ask the experts on the proper procedure first.
Thanks fellas
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- MFolks
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Starter Solenoid Checkout
Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:
1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).
2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.
3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.
4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.
6.Try again to start the bike.
7.If no luck, go to step #8
8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.
9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:
A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm
10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit.
11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.
12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.
13. Check the related wirng from the right handlebar start switch as some riders have found dead bugs/corrosion on those contacts. Look inside the headlight housing too as many electrical connections are there.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Tommotbird
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Tommotbird
Triumph Thunderbird Sport
Triumph Legend
Lambretta SX150
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1981 KZ650CSR HI
KZ1100 A2 x 4
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- MentalMike
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Check out your battery first of all by swapping it with a known decent one!!!
Tommotbird
Thanks - I forgot to mention that I did swap out with another battery and also hooked up my truck battery with truck off and it made no difference.
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- jeffasaki
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78 Z1R
78 KZ1000
76 KH500 gone
71 HS1B 90
81 GS 1100 gone
80 PE400
02 KLR
Ontario Canada
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- polkat
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- MentalMike
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I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- chance
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- chance
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- MentalMike
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Mentalmike aren't you the one who has the cop chop ?
cop chop? Nope
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- chance
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Sorry wrong mental...:blush:chance wrote:
Mentalmike aren't you the one who has the cop chop ?
cop chop? Nope
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- MentalMike
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So my question is this.
If I rebuild the bad starter with one of the standard rebuild kits, am I guaranteed a properly functioning, like new starter or could there be more bad with the starter than a rebuild can fix?
I'm just wondering if investing in a new starter is a better guarantee since I plan on keeping the bike until I no longer can draw a breath.
Any thoughts?
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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