KZ750 four blows main fuse.

I'd suggest going to www.electrosport.com and use their troubleshooting guide.

Oops, wrong thread. :blush:

MFolks wrote:

I'd suggest going to www.electrosport.com and use their troubleshooting guide.

YAY! Thanks! :laugh:

Love these type of fault-finding charts. I'll check it out.

Thread starter here. Here's what I found out so far...

Took the battery in for load testing. It's fine.

Tested the rectifier with the resistance tests. That part is fine, but there seems to be no test for the regulator itself (the manual does talk about a regulator section test using three batteries and some lights, but I'm not equipped for that).

Swapped the beat up and broken plastic fuse box for a blade type fuse block. It needed it. That seemed to get the engine running long enough for some more tests (although it may just be that whatever was shorting presently isn't).

Pulled the stator wires loose and did the A/C voltage tests between the three yellow wires. I got about 30 volts at idle and almost (not quite) 50 volts at 4K, so I think the alternator is fine.

Well, says I, lets see. So I took the bike around the block (about a mile where I live). And (as happened once before) just as I pulled back into my driveway she dies. 20 amp fuse blown again!!

I simply don't get it!? I've traced every wire and harness on this bike at least twice, checked for tight and clean connections, grounds, etc. The only thing I can figure is the regulator. I've got another one coming (used, hope it's good) and I'll post back when I get some results.

Try this troubleshooting guide(I got this from Patton and added to it):

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors,in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

Thanks! I downloaded that about a week ago and tried it all. No help, so I'm hoping it's the regulator

Did you go to that link above yet, www.electrosprt.com and do the troubleshooting flowchart? It will tell you if the regulator is bad.

I hate to come in here as a newbie and say this, but I digress.

I know that Z1 Enterprises is a contributing & valued member here, but that price does seem high. After reading that the OEM unit is around $100 it fits into perspective a little better.

If you have the money & want a simple plug & play solution I'm sure Z1E is the way to go.

If you want to shop around you might try Beatrice Cycle. Just do a web search. I know they have 6V versions so they should have 12V also. You would probably have to do some wiring.

Also, I thought I would through out that I had a similar problem on my Yamaha DT250a. It turned out to be the front brake light switch. Probably not in your case, but it never hurts to share experiences.

James

Actually, I think that much in the world of bike parts is over priced today, and some of it doesn't make sense. Take the voltage regulator under discussion here. It consists of an SCR, a transistor, a cap, and a handfull of resistors, while the rectifier is simply a handfull of diodes. Then there's the case, a connector, some epoxy filler, and a little wiring. Search the web's electronics sites and you could probably get it all for less then $15. So of course, the going price is around $100!! Doesn't make sense.

I see a lot of that in motorcycle parts, and it effects car parts as well (particularly in older vehicles).

By the way, I found the reg on Ebay at a fair price for a used unit. Problem is that you never know if the used unit you are buying is also shot. I'll install it when it arrives and post about it.

Have you looked at these items? oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html

Nice website, and some interesting parts, but as for direct bolt-in replacements, I don't see anything special about the prices.