That @#^%$@!!! KZ650!

I've read about the problems you're having and thought I'd add my advise about charging problems. On the larger 4's the alternator output wires go through a grommet by the shift lever.

Three yellow wires conduct the three phase A.C. to the regulator/rectifier. After leaving the grommet, the alternator wiring picks up the side stand switch,neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring and bundles it all together running above the engine sprocket in a channel.

If there is a short due to heat,vibration or just age of the wiring insulation, this could be why you're going through reg/rects so quickly. I'd pull the sprocket cover and look at the wiring for signs of overheating,rubbing, or shorting. Look really well where the alternator wiring goes through the grommet for rubbing/shorting.

Mfolks has an excellent point, you start pumping Vac through that frame and kiss them all (bulbs/grounded electronics)good bye...

A good visual inspection (cracked, frayed rubber/conductor insulation/solder termination oxidization) & continuity measurement's would tell all.... Be patient (I know, I know) and you will find the source of the problem...

We all realize it's frustrating at times but dude, this is a 30 year old bike after all and once you get all the bugs worked, you'll kick yourself in the ass for selling her under these reasons...

Just something to consider...

OMR

650ed, I idle the bike at 1500. Anything below that and it makes a "knocking" sound which terrifies me, but which I am assured is normal for I4 motorcycles. I've been told it's related to carb synching, and it does seem to get better or worse depending on how well they're synched, but it still freaks me out when I hear it.

And OMR, on that first day, literally every light bulb on the bike blew out, one at a time, over the course of less than an hour. We found it was putting out 21v, and replaced the voltage regulator; the first step on this happy journey.

The thing I'm not sure I've made clear is, at least half a dozen times, we've gotten the bike charging. Each time, within less than 300 miles riding, the bike has eaten a regulator, a stator, a battery, or some combination thereof.

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm working today and tomorrow, but Tuesday, I'll use them as a jumping-off point to try and trach this down.

PS. I went out to ride my DR350 a few minutes ago. Three guess on what is dead.

I am freaking cursed. Ha ha ha

UPDATE *******

OK, I just heard from Tim, the guy who so kindly drove all the way across town on Saturday night to pick up my bike.

He took the battery off the bike and charged it for several hours. It came right back up, and is still fine after a load test.

He wired around the battery and ran the bike without it. It idles fine, but skips when revved up. Putting the battery back in causes the bike to run without skipping at all rpms.

Tim says he suspects some of the diodes are blown out in the regulator.

Please note, this is a brand new regulator that has been on the bike for less than 300 miles, as has the rewound stator.

After four regulators and three stators, the pattern is clear:

1. The bike stops charging

2. The defective regulator and/or stator is replaced with one that passes the bench tests outlined in the Clymer manual.

3. The bike charges at or near the levels outlined in the Clymer manual.

4. I joyfully ride the bike for 300 miles or less, with the CHiPs theme resounding through my head.

5. A regulator and/or stator is consumed.

6. I am left beside the road kickstarting the dead bike till I pull a calf muscle and cursing profusely (and creatively) while my delicious Chicken and Potato burrito grows cold.

Clearly, the innumerable stator, regulator, and battery problems are merely symptoms of something much greater.

The pattern of damaging new parts is clear, unfortunately yes.

"Tim says he suspects some of the diodes are blown out in the regulator."... If blown open regulator diodes, this equates to no +12Vdc only rectifier voltages (+14Vdc or higher) in which case you just put back into your electrical system.... thus more damage.

Diodes do fail but to blow them open normally this is caused by excessive current exceeding the diodes design in forward and reversed bias currents parameters. For this to occur would depict as we're informing you of, partial/short to ground where current will always follow the least significant path to ground via ohms laws of electrical applied theories. It's just the way it works...

As some of us have provided back to you, if you have shorted conductors, partially shorted conductor insulation in your harness to other conductors/frame/ground, this will keep continuing.

Visual inspection & continuity measurements would provide some answers for you most definitely. Somewhere in that harness, motor electrical terminations, starter wherever you most likely (99% likelihood) have a partial
short.

Sorry dude to be the bearer of bad news but stop trying to start this bike until you find this source of your problem otherwise continue damaging good components, your call.

I'm not trying to be a dick here but you really need to do this, just no way around it... Or get a new/used harness or sell ass is and be done with it...

Again, sorry man,

OMR

Please don't kill me for asking, but is it possible that somewhere (i.e. voltage regulator) a wire is hooked to the wrong connector? I only ask because many years ago this happened on an Austin Healey I owned and caused numerous bits and pieces to fail. Ed

Now way Ed, you must die....

Actually Ed brings up a real good point for all of us.
Meaning unless you are the original owner (30 year old KZ) none of us have a way of knowing what mickey mouse wiring went on in all the owners and 30 years of abuse.

Unless of course as some of us have done, is go through every termination, continuity test all conductors to and from terminations/plug connectors, performed every electrical test/measurement provided in the Shop manuals, re-solder where required, replace corroded connectors and fuse blocks etc....

It's part of owning a 30 year old motorcycle...

Good point Ed!

Guys, I totally agree with what you're saying. If you've looked at the threads from the past I've posted on this problem, you've seen that I've been saying there's an underlying problem from the beginning. That got me attacked by Steel, who rabidly insisted I must first replace the stator and regulator with brand new parts before I can make that assertion.

Well, I have, and one brand new 120.00 regulator later, I'm right back where I was before.

Just to echo what OMR said, I bought my bike recently and was told it had an unknown electrical problem. I hopped on eBay and bought a harness to replace the one on the bike. This was before I stripped the bike down and found how how truly butchered the wiring. I think I have read someone bought a brand new harness from z1 enterprises and maybe that would be a better investment for you instead of buying more regulators and batteries, and such. JMHO.

Then inspect your harness, conductors, accomplish continuity between conductors Dyno & ignition plate wiring grommets) and locate the short to ground.....

But for KZ Gods sake, don't put this new regulator in or at least if you do install it, don't start the bike until you find the source or you're just going to damage another one...

One bad regulator to be shipped to you... well it can happen but 3 of them... Highly unlikely!

I can't nor anyone else can say what was and what is regarding what you were informed in previously but what we can tell you is this, you've only been replacing what is being damaged not what is causing the damage.

I know, I know and do realize you already know this... Frustrating as it may be but there is no magic pixie dust for this.....

For the time being, take a breather, slow down, evaluate, analyze, measure & test for what is occurring; basically thinking it out logically.

Visually inspect the ignition plate wiring (r/side of motor) through the rubber grommet and in the Dyno wiring in the left side of the motor. Inspect the electrical side panel insuring no loose, no loose single wire in a conductor or rust/oxidization is present where due to riding, bumps in the road, what ever is shorting to ground thus poof.... damage!

Disconnect all other non essential power connectors such as head/break light, turn signals, instrumentation cluster and use only what is required.... Start small and be thorough...

Or... take it to a shop and have them go through it for you ($$$) or take a chance and just replace your harness and regulator and hope for the best... or, or, or...

We've all been there and yes it can be extremely frustrating but this is what we do.... For fun mind you! :blink: but these are 30 year old rides and shit has happened to them over the years.

OK, I've said enough now for I'm even boring myself with it... :S

Be patient, you'll find it...

Let us know how it works out,

OMR

OMR once again you are most wise when you said a thirty year old bike shit happens who knows what the hell has been done to it if available i would just to save yourself a bunch of headaches buy a new harness and go from there.

Someone needs to invent a dye you put in the battery that glows where the short is present.