Mystery wire time!

You have an astute eye. If the pic was bigger, you could also see that the fuse holder is melted, thus the PO's blade fuse fix. A few of the wires going to the condenser and starting solenoid were melted from the outside, but after cutting off the clear plastic, the wires "seemed" intact. Of course, having an ohmmeter and a voltmeter would definitively pove it one way or the other. Until then, I'm just shooting in the dark.

Thanks for the tips all. I don't care how f'd the wiring is on this KZ, I'm bringing this bike back to life faster than Jesus rising for sunday pancakes. Happy Easter!

Without an ohmmeter, to double-check whether negative battery terminal is properly grounded to the engine or frame, leave everything turned off and hold the metal side of a known good 12v bulb against the engine, leaving the solder dot exposed.

Attach a temporary test wire to the positive battery terminal, and being careful not to touch the metal side of the bulb or engine, touch the other end of the test wire to the solder dot on the end of the bulb. The bulb should light up.

If the bulb fails to light, the battery negative terminal is not properly grounded (or the bulb is bad).

Imo, failure of condensers, rectifier or starting solenoid is NOT a possible cause for the bike not getting any juice.

As earlier noted, the only critical "juice" needed to start and run is positive battery voltage to the coils (and to the Dyna-S, if applicable). For testing purposes, the bike may be "hot-wired" with a wire from the positive battery terminal to the coil inputs (same as turning ON the ignition). Don't leave the hot wire in place very long while the engine isn't running (same as leaving ignition ON) because doing so may damage the coils.

Good Luck!