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Keep blowing headlights 25 Mar 2009 18:30 #275388

  • JimatMilkyWay
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I kinda like your logic/answer. If the voltage across the battery posts, at 2500rpm or so is not excessive, then the charge current should not be excessive. Battery internal resistance does not vary dramatically.

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Keep blowing headlights 26 Mar 2009 08:49 #275505

  • Zacknhs
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i have been trying to track down a multimeter. The bike has been apart all this week bc its spring break and i needed to put new bolts and gaskets in the motor. and now it has been raining for two days. the bike will be running on sat when my 3rd set of pod filters get here after order confusion.

The vibration thing def sounds like what is going on since it did the same thing with the old separate reg and rec and with the new combo unit. but I'll check with a multimeter once i find mine :(

The battery is good the bike will start on electric even after sitting all winter with fresh gas it started right up.
Columbus, Ohio

Go Bucks

1978 Kz1000 <- first bike and i love it!!

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Last edit: by Zacknhs.

Keep blowing headlights 26 Mar 2009 11:02 #275525

  • MFolks
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Radio Shack has them, Home Depot,Lowes,and Sears all carry Analog(the type with the needle) and Digital meters.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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Keep blowing headlights 26 Mar 2009 11:51 #275542

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Do you find headlights attractive??? LOL:woohoo:

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Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 15:50 #275879

  • otakar
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Than I guess I should get out of the battery engineering business. Lead Acid battery's have always been and always will be voltage sensitive and Amperage self regulating Just like Lithium, Ion or Polymer. Ni-Cad and Ni-MH are Amperage sensitive and voltage self regulating. Our firm has 45 engineers that work on this stuff day in and day out. They can't all be wrong. We deal with all the major battery manufacturers, and the battery charging guidelines are all the same. Besides a head light will consume only as many amps as it is designed for at a given voltage. Simple math V=IxR W=IxV. If your voltage goes up the Amperage goes up with it. once you exceed the rated Wattage of the bulb. POP.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
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80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
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Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 17:54 #275900

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Zacknhs wrote:

i have been trying to track down a multimeter. The bike has been apart all this week bc its spring break and i needed to put new bolts and gaskets in the motor. and now it has been raining for two days. the bike will be running on sat when my 3rd set of pod filters get here after order confusion.

The vibration thing def sounds like what is going on since it did the same thing with the old separate reg and rec and with the new combo unit. but I'll check with a multimeter once i find mine :(

The battery is good the bike will start on electric even after sitting all winter with fresh gas it started right up.



harbor freight.....cheap enough to buy two multimeters.......

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Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 18:07 #275901

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hoghaterkaw wrote:

otakar wrote:

I agree, this would be a bad voltage regulator. Eventually this will also destroy your battery and can also blow your ignition. Change the voltage regulator. 14v across the battery terminals is ABSOLUTELY MAXIMUM. For me that is also a bit too high. Kawasaki states 14-15V. 14 makes me more comfortable. Charging voltage for a lead acid battery should not be more than 12% over rated voltage =13.44v.




i disagree with you, the charging amperage should not be more than 12% of the amperage rating of the battery. new cars have charging voltages that can exceed 14 volts. as to the the bulbs. many 12v bulbs can easily live at close to 17v+. you have resistance somewhere in the wiring. you have corrosion. first clean the battery terminals and their wire connects. then the positive wire from the battery where it connects to the fuse box and starter solenoid. next trace the neg. battery wire to where it connects to the motor cases and clean that connection. last locate the black wire from the rec/reg clean it and make a jumper wire to the neg. post of the battery from where the reg/rec ground is landed. that should reduce the high voltage. however you still need to go thru all the wiring and clean and snug up all the connections. now test the charging system output.


new cars have charging systems that regularly exceed 14 volts because those alternators are charging fog lites, stereos with factory subwoofers, rear defoggers, heated seats and electronics that the first apollo mission would be jealous of..


12v bulbs can live past 17v?.....i m sure engineers put in a plus or minus factor based on a percentage....+40% is o k....?.......

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Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 18:12 #275904

  • Old Man Rock
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Need I say more.... Includes Tach & Dwell

EDIT: Harbor Freight Tools... Oops! Thanks Tony!

1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az
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Last edit: by Old Man Rock.

Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 18:47 #275910

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Old Man Rock wrote:

Need I say more.... Includes Tach & Dwell


How about where to purchase this multimeter. :D

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Keep blowing headlights 27 Mar 2009 22:38 #275983

  • Becker
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Here is the basic rule of thumb as I know it. If you blow a light and it's black, to much amperage. Blow it and it's white, there was a crack or air leak. Blow it and its clear but the filament is cracked off then it's a vibration issue. Batteries can handle way more then 14 volts. but if you read anything over 15 then I would worry. A test you could do is test for DC at the headlight. it should be the same on high or low beam and pretty close to the same as the battery. I'd expect 14.5V at 4000 RPM's.
78 KZ750B3
79 KZ400 LTD
78 KZ650C2
79 KZ650C3
78 KZ650B2A
80 KZ650F1
80 KZ650E1
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Keep blowing headlights 28 Mar 2009 05:38 #276012

  • otakar
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Try this it is foolproof. Kawasaki states 14-15V this will tell you and it's cheep. www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65928
As stated before by the membership. a regular multimeter can be bought at Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Sears, home Depot, Best Buy, any automotive supply store.
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000

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Last edit: by otakar.

Keep blowing headlights 28 Mar 2009 06:29 #276019

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I would be concerned about any value above 14.4V and below 13.5V. Nominal automotive charging value is considered to be 13.8V which is a nominal charging value of 2.3 Volts per cell. 14.4V works out to 2.4 Volts per cell which is toward the high side, 20% over the static value of 2 Volts per cell.

Keep in mind that Kawasaki designed the charging system to not only recharge the battery but to adequately power the stock lighting and ignition systems while keeping the battery charged. In other words, the regulator needs a certain amount of electrical load to maintain around 14 Volts on the electrical system. If there isn't enough load the regulator allows the system to operate at a higher voltage and bad things like overcharging the battery, blowing lamps, and perhaps even damaging the regulator result. If there is too much load (added accessories and the like) then the regulator can't keep up and the voltage on the system is too low resulting in an undercharged battery.

The charging systems on these bikes operate in a much narrower range than those of a car.
Nate

Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.

1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel :D )

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