charging problems

I'm having charging problems and I'm not sure if it is the stator or not. I replaced the reg/rec but with the bike idling the voltage is only ~11.85 so I can only ride for so long and then it doesn't start on it's own. I used a multimeter and checked the ac volts of the three yellow wires and they are about 25 volts each. In the manual it says they should be 75 volts but it isn't clear if each wire is supposed to be 75 or each wire putting out 25 x 3 = 75 total. Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Justin

There are 3 yellow stator wires. They should be disconnected from the reg/rec, then one pair at a time should be measured for AC volts. At 6000 RPM, each pair should have about 70 volts AC on a meter. Near idle, each pair should have about 20 volts.

This is not a good load test, but if it doesn't pass these tests the wiring may be bad or the stator may be bad. (Or very rarely, the magnet may be weak or even loose, but that is almost never the problem.)

If it passes those tests, it may still be bad, but more testing will need to be done.

I have an 1982 GPZ1100B2 model that the same thing happened to a year or so after I bought it new. The stator had some burned/shorted winding wires and had to be replaced.

During the repair I noticed the connector plug the three yellow wires went to looked as if it had partially melted due to bad crimps of the wires or intermittant make/break due to vibration. I replaced the connector plug and the terminal lugs and have had no problem since.

I have used a contact cleaner/preservitive from Caig called Deoxit on all of the connectors with no problem. It can be found at www.deoxit.com and is compatable with plastics.

So I did replace the stator thinking that was the problem but it was a used one and I'm thinking it's no good but not sure. When I test the stator again at idle at 1k it is around 15 volts and 11.5 volts at the battery. It doesn't hit 12 volts on the batt till around 1.5K, but it should idle at 1k not 1.5k right? I rev up to 4k and the voltage at the stator is 50 volts. The wires are not melted so I know that is not it. Is 15 volts at idle too low? If so is it definitely the stator? Thanks for your help guys.

Also is it bad to keep charging the batt and continuing to ride it, on a full charge it will last about four or five days till it needs to be charged so i've been charging it every three days or so and riding to work.

Idle on the 550 should be more like 1200 RPM.

15v at idle? Do you mean 15v AC on the yellow wires at idle?
15vDC on the battery would be overcharging.


What is the battery voltage on the battery at 4000 RPM, with a fully charged battery?

The stator is 15 volts ac at idle. I checked and at 4k the battery is fluctuated around 13 volts dc. It's just enough to wear the battery down when i'm stopped at a light or warming up but if I jump on the highway it charges. I also recently added a second ground from the battery to the frame in case it was that but that didn't really do much.

ok, I tried the light bulb test to see if there was a short. So I disconnected the positive terminal and put a 12v light bulb between the pos batt terminal and the pos bike wire that Mfolks suggested for seanof30306 in this post here kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&id=224336&catid=4



Anyway, sure enough the light bulb lit up, so there must be a short somewhere. Now as far as finding the short. I start unplugging harness to see where the light goes out. I unplugged the left switchgear connector then the right switchgear connector, the light stayed on. The light did go off when I unplugged these three things but maybe it is supposed to so I'm not sure. The three things where the connector to the fuse box (of which no single wire kept the light on only the whole thing plugged in), the connector inside the headlight that goes to the ignition switch (I tracked it to a white wire), and the last was the red wire that was on a two wire connector coming off the positive battery terminal.

So why are those three connectors making the light bulb go out and which one is really shorted? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Justin

Also wondering if a short somewhere in the system might be causing a lower voltage reading coming out of the stator? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.

justinlitch wrote:

Also wondering if a short somewhere in the system might be causing a lower voltage reading coming out of the stator? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.

The 3 yellow wire's should give between 60/90 volts each!
The reg/rec ( if generator is OK..), it should give a good 14 volts at 1500tpm , when battery is in good condition.
(measuring voltage on battery poles)

You could measure the ohm resistance on the 3 yellow wires.
(measure wire to wire..)
Resistance should be between 0.1 and 1.0 Ohms.... and for the best, ... measurements should be the same....

Be sure that the black wire from negative pole, make's a good clean connection with the engine. And check wire on break.
The reg/rec also needs a good clean connection to the frame (ground)

So I checked the ohms of the stator and all the wires were .6 ohms so that seems to be good. The reg/rec is properly mounted so that should be fine. The other wire coming out the stator is also connected and seems sound.

I think it is a short some where because of the light bulb test but cannot find exactly where the short is because so many connectors make the light go out and I'm not sure if it is normal for the light to go out when those get disconnected. For example it would almost make sense that the light goes out when I disconnect the ignition switch connector because that would be the equivalent of turning the key off right? Same thing with the wires coming off the positive terminal and also the fuse box connector. Does anyone know if it is normal for the light to go off when those are disconnected?
When doing more with the light bulb test the brown wire that connects to the ignition switch also makes the light bulb go out, but the same question arises here as well, is it normal for the bulb to go out since it might do the same effect as turning the key to the off position?

Man this is really frustrating me, I've spent multiple hours for days and days on end trying to figure this thing out and still can't diagnose a problem for sure, except I think it might be a short because the bulb is lit when connected to the battery, but of course I can't find the source!

I think I have the same problem.


I just put a new stator in and when I fired the bike up,
I was charging at 2k rpm. Then after 10 minutes the charging rpm went up to 4500 before I saw 13.5 volts on the meter.

I dont know what is up. Is it a short or bad regulator?

Is a Gpz1100 not supposed to charge until 4500rpm?

Seems silly for around town, that you have to go on the freeway to charge your battery.

I'm going to troubleshoot tonite.

Any ideas......

If you're getting 13.5 at 4500 rpms that seems farily normal. After warm up at idle what are you getting?