diagram for BigBlockT

I hope this is correct, I threw it together pretty quickly.
ignore the colors for the lighting wires. They may not match your bike.

Shouldn't there be an igniter in there somewhere?:blink:

Stargate wrote:

Shouldn't there be an igniter in there somewhere?:blink:

Not familiar with the Dyna S are you?

No, there is not supposed to be an igniter in there, the Dyna S is an all-in-one unit.

Do I need to add in a relay like Wired George wrote on repowering the ignition coils to get full power or is this diagram do that ?

That diagram doesn't power the coils direct from the battery via a relay. It powers the coil through the kill switch and ignition switch. I would not do it like that. Also, the rear running light shares a fuse with everything else, as I interpret. The OEM manufacturers ALWAYS put the rear running light on its own subcircuit although that subcircuit also goes through the main fuse. The reason is that the rear running light should never get blown by some other electrical gizmo of lesser safety impact. Just stuff to consider.

You can add a fuse anywhere you want or deem necessary. If the tailight shorts out, the bike will stop just as if there was a short anywhere else. The point is to minimize the redundancy.

This is all a little overkill on the wire gauge, but here it is. The red lines represent 14 gauge. The blue lines represent 16 gauge. Black lines represent 18 gauge.
The actual color of the wire is written in 3-letter code, but are obviously subject to change as necessary.

14 gauge wire is not very fun to work with. I usually use 16 and 18 for everything outside of the starter wiring. The stator wires may only be 18, but I'm not sure. Use 16 to be safe.

Obviously, you can use thicker wire. If you don't want to buy a bunch of sizes, stick to 16 for everything that's black and blue. 16 is probably the size I use the most of.

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Here is a much simpler solution. It re-configures the ignition switch to double up on the wires for the ignition. But the "park" position will no longer be an option, it will be another "on" position and should not be used. For this to work, the ignition switch will have to be in decent condition. Since you are doing so much work on the bike, you may want to just get a new ignition switch from Z1 enterprises or Dennis Kirk. You can also eliminate the kill switch, if you want, by wiring the Dyna S RED wire to the same point as the coil feed. The Dyna module itself does not use a lot of current through the RED wire. The heavy current goes from the coils to ground.

Thanks

I went to start wireing and noticed that my green dyna coils are not colar coded or marked + or - so how do you go about wireing these or does it matter the diagram is great just at a sticking point, can any one help?

If the coils are not marked, it doesn't matter. Some would even say it doesn't matter even if the coils were marked + and -. The green and black wires are to stay consistent with Kaw wiring convention.