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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 01 Aug 2009 09:33 #310731

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 01 Aug 2009 11:11 #310750

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Wow, that thing is awesome!:cheer:

Based on the first photos you posted, you must have been working your ass off! It has really come a long way. Very nice assault vehicle!

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 02 Aug 2009 00:04 #310864

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Thanks Loudhvx, if not for you and your wiring help it would not be here. Thanks again and also a thanks to Z1 and Dyna.

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 05 Aug 2009 23:51 #311920

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Loudhvx. Could you check this wiring for me. It is the way I mounted the coils. The 2 screws on each coil have no polarity according to Dyna. They also said the coils do not need to be grounded. They are sending back a new coil, seems one was not up to specs.

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 05 Aug 2009 23:56 #311921

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Diagram
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 06 Aug 2009 03:47 #311940

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That looks good to me. I assume the battery + in the diagram is not permanently connected, correct? If so, the coils will be on all the time. You should make sure to have a way to kill the power to the coils and Dyna S.

I'm not familiar with the wire colors on the Dyna S, though. If that wiring works on the stock coils, it should work with dyna coils. There is no chance the screws on the coils are touching the fram anywhere, correct? On some bikes, the screws end up real close to the frame and sometimes can cause the coils to short against the frame.

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 06 Aug 2009 04:11 #311943

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One way to insulate screw heads from metal coil mount spacer is with nylon tie wraps secured around the metal spacer.



Good Luck! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 07 Aug 2009 00:47 #312151

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Thanks. The power to the coils goes through the key switch. I followed your diagram for that. Thanks again, I will be getting the new coils on Monday and will let you know.

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 09 Aug 2009 00:47 #312595

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We seem to be having a problem getting the engine past 4000 rpm. It has 2 exhaust pipes with no crossover pipe. Could that be a problem? 1&2 into one pipe, 3&4 into the other. The compression is about 125 lbs in all cylinders. Could the old coils be breaking down at high rpm? Mabey the new Dyna coils will solve it. Power to the coils is just under 12 volts. Thanks again.

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Last edit: by snerff. Reason: more info

1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 09 Aug 2009 05:41 #312637

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snerff wrote:

We seem to be having a problem getting the engine past 4000 rpm. It has 2 exhaust pipes with no crossover pipe. Could that be a problem? 1&2 into one pipe, 3&4 into the other. The compression is about 125 lbs in all cylinders. Could the old coils be breaking down at high rpm? Mabey the new Dyna coils will solve it. Power to the coils is just under 12 volts. Thanks again.


no crossover pipe. Could that be a problem? -- Not a prime suspect imo.

If not already done, would double-check ignition timing, and watch advancer under timing light move quickly back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping throttle, to assure the advancer isn't stuck in closed position.

:unsure: Is it "breaking up" at 4000 rpm, or just petering out? :unsure:

Power to the coils is just under 12 volts.--Maybe old hard worn sparkplug wires are leaking voltage and causing weak spark at higher rpm.

:unsure: What are sparkplug readings?

:unsure: Possible fuel starvation issue?

Just pondering. :)

Good Luck! :cheer:
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 09 Aug 2009 08:43 #312666

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Well, is 125 psi good compression for a 1000? My 550's are all above 180 psi. My friend's worn out 650 had around 150 psi after about 100,000 miles.

If you're sure the engine is ok, then the next step would be ignition, so I might wait for the dyna coils.

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 09 Aug 2009 09:29 #312673

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KZ1000 standard compression is 128~156 psi
Service limit is 100 psi, with 14 psi variance between cylinders.

Some 1000's reportedly perform okay on less than 100 psi.

In the case at hand, if not already done, would verify correct valve clearances, even if compression test figures are okay.

Too tight valves can cause loss of compression at normal operation temperatures, even though the valves are seating when compression testing a cold engine.

Good Luck! :)
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KZ900 LTD

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