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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 02:59 #620961

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loudhvx wrote: 1981 Kawasaki KZ550C2 Ltd. for Calebjkd


If I wanted to add the horn I would just branch off the "hot" wire to the horn button, to the horn itself, then to ground, right?
'81 Kawasaki kz550 ltd
'71 Yamaha xs650

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 04:56 #620962

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Take a look at the 1980 KZ750-H1 wiring diagram in the link below. I believe when the horn button is pressed it connects to ground on the handlebars. So in the stock wiring a hot wire goes directly to one terminal on the horn, and a wire runs from the other terminal on the horn to the horn button. Then when the horn button is pressed it completes the circuit to ground and the horn is activated. Ed

mbsween.bike-night.com/kz750l3/media/KZ750-H1-US.jpg
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 11:30 #620985

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Like Ed said, the horn button connects to ground via the handlebars.

Run a wire from the top wire (which is switched hot), to the horn, then another wire from the horn to the horn button, which will connect to ground when pressed.
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 12:05 #620991

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Thanks guys!!
'81 Kawasaki kz550 ltd
'71 Yamaha xs650

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 13:12 #621001

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Hey Loudhvx I have a pretty good understanding of all your diagrams, and they have helped me a lot, so thank you so much. But I have two quick questions, where should I start when following any of these wiring diagrams, and what gauge wire should I use? I think Im gonna use the very first one on the first page. I have a 1981 KZ750!

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 14:07 #621010

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Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 17:57 #621022

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If you check the diagrams, most of them, especially the later ones, follow a similar format. These are more or less schematics to show electrical function, but do not really show physical location of wires and components. Wiring diagrams show the physical layout along with more details on connectors etc.

My schematics generally (but not always) follow this architecture:

The power generation and regulation starts at the left side, battery and starter are usually just to the right of that, then ignition, then all of the lights and accessories are to the far right.

Current in the power generation, fuses, and main on/off switch flows from bottom to top. Then current for everything else flows top to bottom. (One exception is if the regulator has a dedicated detection wire, or if the alternator uses a field coil. That wiring will be to the far left, and current (if any) will flow top to bottom.)

The top horizontal line is switch 12v power, and the bottom horizontal line is ground.

Some of the earlier schematics may not follow this system, and may have things in different places, and power flow direction reversed (right to left, instead of left to right).

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 18:04 #621023

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Gabe42 wrote: Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?


Keeping the above post in mind, you would tap into the top line for 12v power. So yes, you could tap from the top side of the kill switch, but anywhere on the top line will work as well.

Incidently, on the original Mattylight schematic, it would be better to leave out the optional fuse. Some Kawasaki's came with the fuse in that location, but it would actually be better to put it in the line coming out of the rectifier. I think Kawasaki eventually changed that fuse location back to the way it was in earlier KZ's because they realized it has the potential to do damage if the fuse blows, butthe bike keeps running.
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 18:35 #621026

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Schmeck wrote: If there is a way You can incorporate an 8 pin Terminal block instead of the oem fuse box that would be awesome!


Sorry Schmeck, I've been really busy and this post fell by the wayside. As it is, these are schematics, so I really wouldn't be able to incorporate a terminal block since I don't specify where you will connect wires. That is up to the person doing the wiring. These drawings are just to show the functionality of the electrical system, not necessarily the layout of the wiring. To show that for each individual custom bike would be an enormous task to do remotely.

Also, I generally recommend the single-fuse, waterproof holders for the fuses. Usually a bare bones will use one, or maybe two of them. Obviously, you can't replace fuses with a terminal block, they are two different things, with different purposes.

I'd be happy to draw up a bare bones schematic if you still need it, however, it looks like you have it mostly figured out, based on the other thread you posted.

If any questions come up, especially for the batteryless setup, post the questions in that thred, and I'll try to answer there.
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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 19:57 #621034

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Hey loudhvx , yes I did figure out the wiring . its actually really easy when you just wire one part to another .If I need help wiring switches I will definently chime in here , Thanks :)
1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 03 Feb 2014 19:59 #621035

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Ill post any questions in my thread , just read that last sentence .
1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust

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1980 750H bare bones for mattylight 05 Feb 2014 11:19 #621220

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THank you so much for your help, its all starting to come together. So Loudhvx, where are the crank pickups? Are they located underneath the small cover towards the front on the right hand side of the bike (if you're sitting on it)?

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