1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

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09 Jan 2012 01:40 - 10 Jan 2019 16:31 #497170 by loudhvx
Replied by loudhvx on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
1980 KZ1000 E2 Shaft for Rockabillybobber
Automotive ignition switch.


EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz1000E2 with aftermarket ignition switch for Rockabillybobber
Kz1000E Kz1000 E2 Kz 1000 E 1000E2 1000E
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Last edit: 10 Jan 2019 16:31 by loudhvx.

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09 Jan 2012 15:32 #497246 by KZHardtail
Replied by KZHardtail on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
Perfect! that is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for your time and expertise!

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02 Feb 2012 21:27 #501620 by notaduc
Replied by notaduc on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

loudhvx wrote: 1980 KZ1000 batteryless with HEI ignition for Notaduc

Attachment not found



Since I am rebuilding my engine, I plan to use a small battery until I get it starting reliably. Could I interchange a battery for the capacitor in this schematic, or do i need other changes also?

Thanks!

1980 (mostly) KZ1000

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03 Feb 2012 16:25 - 10 Jan 2019 16:33 #501786 by loudhvx
Replied by loudhvx on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
1980 KZ1000 batteryless for Notaduc, with optional small-battery configuration for testing.

I had to reconfigure a couple things to make it a simple change from capacitor to battery. SW 1 is needed only when you are using the small battery. The switch has to handle 20 amps minimum. (You can use a 10A double-pole switch and double up the contacts to make it 20A.)

The switch can be placed anywhere since it is not really what turns the motor on and off. The Kill Switch will still turn the motor off. The SW 1 is there to kill power to the lights and regulator, after the motor is turned off, to prevent killing the battery.

The switch is not needed when using the capacitor since the cap will drain quickly either way. But you can leave the switch in place and just leave it always "on" when using the capacitor.


EDIT 1/10/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones
1980 Kawasaki Kz1000 no battery batteryless for Notaduc
Kz 1000
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Last edit: 10 Jan 2019 16:33 by loudhvx.

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08 Feb 2012 23:57 #502902 by xbmxxx
Replied by xbmxxx on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

loudhvx wrote: No prob. You can use a small scooter battery if you want to reduce the battery size. I've used the battery from a Honda Spree, 50cc scooter. You can get them at some auto parts stores.

xbmxxx wrote: ... as bare as it can get and still run.

That's how I like 'em.

1976 KZ750 B1 twin. KZ 750.


How much of a hassle would it be to add an aftermarket elec start button to this? After kicking it all night (its 20 degrees out) im starting to miss it.

76 KZ750B Twin

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13 Feb 2012 01:17 #503650 by Ogcoda
Replied by Ogcoda on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
So here is the deal, I have the bare bones diagram for my 1978 kz1000... I don't know if I'm extra slow or something but I still don't get it... I mean I have harnesses like the one on my starter that I have no idea how to hard wire.... The main electronic cluster( with the green, blue, and brown and I think white plugs) for example, Do I need any of this? Do I need anything off this panel? Also I notice there is only one 12v wire running up to the head light... my after market headlight has 3 wires, one for regular light, one for ground, and one for high beams.


IF ANYONE HAS REAL PICTURES OF THERE BARE BONES KZ1000 WIRING HARNESS IT WOULD BE AMAZING IF YOU COULD SHARE!

1978 kz1000 Bobber
2006 MazdaSpeed6

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13 Feb 2012 01:35 #503655 by loudhvx
Replied by loudhvx on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

Ogcoda wrote: So here is the deal, I have the bare bones diagram for my 1978 kz1000... I don't know if I'm extra slow or something but I still don't get it... I mean I have harnesses like the one on my starter that I have no idea how to hard wire.... The main electronic cluster( with the green, blue, and brown and I think white plugs) for example, Do I need any of this? Do I need anything off this panel? Also I notice there is only one 12v wire running up to the head light... my after market headlight has 3 wires, one for regular light, one for ground, and one for high beams.


IF ANYONE HAS REAL PICTURES OF THERE BARE BONES KZ1000 WIRING HARNESS IT WOULD BE AMAZING IF YOU COULD SHARE!


Sorry, these are just schematics to show the electrical paths. They are not wiring diagrams, which tend to show the wires pictorially in order to see how they are laid out on the bike. There are too many variables for me to make a standard pictorial.

But if you look at most of the diagrams, even the two above your post (for a 1000 and a 750), the headlights are shown with 3 wires. The standard layout is one wire for 12v to the hi beam. One wire for 12v to the low beam. And one wire for ground. (Of course, both filaments won't be on at the same time.)

Kawasaki often uses red/yellow for low beam 12v, red/black for hi beam 12v, and black/yellow for ground.

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13 Feb 2012 01:55 #503658 by Ogcoda
Replied by Ogcoda on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

loudhvx wrote:

Ogcoda wrote: So here is the deal, I have the bare bones diagram for my 1978 kz1000... I don't know if I'm extra slow or something but I still don't get it... I mean I have harnesses like the one on my starter that I have no idea how to hard wire.... The main electronic cluster( with the green, blue, and brown and I think white plugs) for example, Do I need any of this? Do I need anything off this panel? Also I notice there is only one 12v wire running up to the head light... my after market headlight has 3 wires, one for regular light, one for ground, and one for high beams.


IF ANYONE HAS REAL PICTURES OF THERE BARE BONES KZ1000 WIRING HARNESS IT WOULD BE AMAZING IF YOU COULD SHARE!


Sorry, these are just schematics to show the electrical paths. They are not wiring diagrams, which tend to show the wires pictorially in order to see how they are laid out on the bike. There are too many variables for me to make a standard pictorial.

But if you look at most of the diagrams, even the two above your post (for a 1000 and a 750), the headlights are shown with 3 wires. The standard layout is one wire for 12v to the hi beam. One wire for 12v to the low beam. And one wire for ground. (Of course, both filaments won't be on at the same time.)

Kawasaki often uses red/yellow for low beam 12v, red/black for hi beam 12v, and black/yellow for ground.


Thanks man, so is there anything you can tell me about the electrical cluster with all the plugs?

1978 kz1000 Bobber
2006 MazdaSpeed6

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13 Feb 2012 03:45 #503669 by loudhvx
Replied by loudhvx on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
They are there to make assembly/disassembly easier, but don't absolutely have to be used. In most bare-bones setups, probably the whole plate would be gone, since the electricals will be moved to somewhere else.

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13 Feb 2012 04:14 #503673 by Ogcoda
Replied by Ogcoda on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

loudhvx wrote: They are there to make assembly/disassembly easier, but don't absolutely have to be used. In most bare-bones setups, probably the whole plate would be gone, since the electricals will be moved to somewhere else.


I don't want it at all, and i have a fake oil tank to mount all my electrical components in.

1978 kz1000 Bobber
2006 MazdaSpeed6

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14 Feb 2012 20:30 #504026 by Ogcoda
Replied by Ogcoda on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
Well I figure I'll give it my best shot tonight......... I'll keep you guys updated when I get stumped. :P

1978 kz1000 Bobber
2006 MazdaSpeed6

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16 Feb 2012 15:46 #504420 by Ogcoda
Replied by Ogcoda on topic 1980 750H bare bones for mattylight
Quick question, I have been working on my new wiring on my bike but I hit a few road blocks. One is the blue plug... what do I do with this?

Also my ignition is on a plug with a bunch of wires. I'm trying to follow the bare bones wiring picture but there is only one wire going in and out of the ignition switch on the picture.

1978 kz1000 Bobber
2006 MazdaSpeed6

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