TOPIC:

you can spend all day trying to get the idle correct but you will need a colour tune plug its the only way to get the mixture correct in all four cylinders, the timing marks on the advancer are T=tdc F=firing mark at normal tick over speed then there are the 2 marks further around the advancer (beyond the 4 & the 3) that should show with your timing light when you reach full advance around 3k
regards

Can’t seem to get the timing down to the “F” mark. Wants to stall out. By color tune plug are you talking the right color on the plug say doing a plug chop test or is that a tuning tool. Sorry not quite understanding your statement. had it out for a run this afternoon. It has a misfire while at a steady 3500 about 55 mph. Very random not consistent anyway it looks good. Still need to swap out the rear fender for the LTD style

With a colortune spark plug you can look into the combustion chamber of an running engine.

www.gunson.co.uk/tech-torque/Colortune-S...e-combustion-chamber

Scirocco wrote: With a colortune spark plug you can look into the combustion chamber of an running engine.

www.gunson.co.uk/tech-torque/Colortune-S...e-combustion-chamber

Thank you Scirocco

Here are the plugs after about an 80 mile ride this evening. Still has a random “fart” out of the #1 carb. #1 on the left 2,3,4 consecutively

Might be a little bias but she looks good under the parking lot lights

hardrockminer wrote: The B1 did not use that one. It used 21148-010.

You can try to measure the angle between the T mark and the F mark to confirm yours is correct for your bike.

Yes, the primary side is the voltage input to the coil. The secondary side is the voltage output to the sparkplugs.

Are you sure about the advancer. Mine has the 21148-1003 as in the photo above. Your sure it’s the 21148-010. If your correct my ‘78 B2 has the wrong advancer.

I’ll test voltage to the primary of the coil tomorrow. Should it be the same as battery voltage?

Are comment on the plug colors? 1&4 are slightly darker. Which is a better color. 1&4or2&3?

According to Partzilla the B2 used 21148-1003 but the B1 used 21148-010. That's likely due to the earlier firing of the B1 ignition....10 deg BTDC vs yours which is 20 deg BTDC. Both are shown as Item 2 on the parts diagram.

The voltage at the coils will likely be less than at the battery. Battery should be 12.5 V or better. Coils would likely be a volt less due to resistance in the connections. If the difference is greater than 1 volt you should clean all contacts carefully. You could also consider Wired George's relay setup. You can find it here.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...-categories/89-COILS

Edited to add that I think the reason the B2 has a different timing is because they were trying to comply with tougher emission regs at the time and advancing the timing at idle was one way to improve fuel burn. That said...it probably doesn't matter much which one you use.

Hardrock.
I checked voltage at the coil primary and its only 9.75. my static battery voltage is 12.5 and drops to 11.9 when ignition is switched on... I traced thur wires only as far as where the positive wire disappears into the harness… I have battery voltage at starter solenoid. in and out of fuse box and coming out of the brown connector... I loose voltage after that... I'm going to have to open up the harness and see what is happening... im assuming that's why I'm not happy with the halogen head light conversion, I bet is low power to it and not the bulbs fault... thank you for the tip... now I have to figure it out...

Unless the wires got too hot and their resistance is now too high, opening the harness would be unnecessary work and a waste of time. You might try running a hot wire to the components you suspect are getting low power to isolate where the problem is. On the Z1/KZ 1000 block connections, the white connector has a bad habit of shorting out there. I'd inspect and clean all the connections leading back to the battery. My low charging and power problems were bad connections.
Steve

I agree with Steve. Don't butcher your harness. The voltage drop will be in the connectors. Buy a can of electric contact cleaning fluid and a toothbrush and clean them up. I bet you will be over 11 volts if you do. And take a hard look at that coil relay setup. It acts like a hotwire and will give you 12 volts at the coils.

well I didn't cut open the harness.... I got out the wiring diagram and traced down the power wire to the coils. it runs thru the right hand control... goes in brown and out as yellow with red stripe... cleaned up all connections and seem to have increased it to within a 1.6 volt difference… still think I'm going to do the relay to get full battery voltage to the coils unless I get better results tomorrow... as luck would have it I put everything back together and started the bike to check running voltage and noticed #1 carb float stuck and dripping fuel... just cant win... done for the night... need to step back relax and try again tomorrow... thanks for all the help.... more updates tomorrow

one more nugget to reflect on for me.... coming out of the RH control, there are also a blue/white and a brown/white that supply power to other items of the Brown power that runs thru the kill switch... without those connected I get within .5 volts of battery. when I connect the Bl/Wht and Br/Wht voltage to the coils drops about 1.10 volts...