TOPIC:

Some CV carbs have a plug that covers the pilot jet, which plug is required in order for the carb to function properly.





Good Fortune!

Patton, truly appreciate the technical data...going to try and drill the plugs out...after watching the video, doesn't look too bad.

Ed - didn't realize that you could tell if parts were active or not from that site. Very helpful.

I'll let you know how the progress goes.

JD

I've got the plugs drilled out, but like an amateur, got so excited that I did not count the number of turns these screws were at before I removed them. Can anyone give me an idea of where these should be set.

Thanks

Manual slide carb--
If side-located pilot screws, would guess 1½ out from lightly seated.
If bottom-located pilot screws, would guess 1¼ ± ¼ out from lightly seated.

CV carb--
If top-located, would wild guess 2 turns out from lightly seated.

Any of these initial settings are merely "default" base settings, which will require fine tuning to achieve the best steady idle rpm that provides a strong pull-away from idle (which also requires a proper carb sync.)

Courtesy of KZr Member loudhvx
General
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/index.html#home
Service manuals
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Mnls/Mnls.html

Good Fortune!

Ok, I got the carb cleaned..All jets including mixture screws. Bowls were fairly gunked up and the jets were all fairly clogged. Got it all cleaned up and put back together. Thanks to everyone for their advice!!

I received the new airbox boots and what a difference that made getting stuff back together.

I put everything back on the bike...hooked up a gas line and

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gas flowing out of the overflows everywhere. Obviously one of my floats is not working properly. I started the bike anyway and SUCCESS all cylinders firing. So that was a major improvement.

But now I have to figure out which float valve is not working>>>any suggestions on how I can do this??

Thanks.

Did you buy carb kits, or just clean up the old parts?
The carb or carbs that are overflowing can be found from looking at which of the hoses are wet with fuel. Also when you were working on the carbs, did you adjust the float levels on the bench, or use the clear tube method for checking the Wet Fuel Height?

I just cleaned it...no rebuild at this point. There's two overflow tubes, but 4 carbs so can't tell which carb is overflowing that way.

So here's what happened next. I went back out and hooked up clear tubes to each carb, and opened the bleed valves. All carbs seems to be at a decent level. I then rehooked up a fuel source and flowed gas in...this time no overflow. Could that be normal when you first rehook a carb back up and put fuel in the first time? anyway, I'll try again tomorrow.

Each carb has its Own overflow, and should then have its own hose, from the bottom of the float bowl next to the drain screw.

Hey I have been following this discussion in hopes of resolving an issue I am having (I'm working on a 1980 kz550A). I am at the part of removing the air screw but it turns infinitely when I try to remove it. Did you run into the same problem or did yours simply turn all the way out of the carburetor assembly?

The 1980 Kz550 should have TK22 carbs. The airscrew is on the side. It just unscrews, but there is an o-ring that might prevent it from dropping out. You might need a really tiny screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to extract the needle-screw.

Here is a website about your carbs.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK22mainPage/TK22mainPage.html

Also, check out the valve train warning in my signature before you try to pull the valve cover.