TOPIC:

More confirming

Even with the permanently set (non-adjustable) factory ignition, the black wire usually connects to whichever ignition coil is firing the outside spark plugs #1/4, and the green wire connects to whichever ignition coil is firing the inside spark plugs #2/3.

Am thinking that this applies to most if not all KZ models, with or without the factory ignition, and regardless of whether the ignition timing is or isn't adjustable by the owner.



Where running strong on starting fluid, and bike ran before the carbs were rebuilt, would indicate that the wiring to coil primary terminals is correct.

Good Fortune!

Breaker19 had me thinking. What he did was make me confirm to myself that I did install the cams correct. When I have some time I'll Pm you Joe. I want to get the carbs back together before i get sidetracked. Between work and kids it's tough getting quality time. I want to be able to pay attention when I talk with Ya!

I love the drawing.

Pilot circuit is clear. I sprayed fluid into the pilot tunnel, blocked the main and Needle tunnel and blew air into the pilot air hole. A nice stream came out the one small hole under the air metering screw. I'm going to work on the Pilot bypass circuit next. If that is possible.

Figured out the issue with starting. The new throttle cable was raising the the Butterfly valves from the closed position. I adjusted the cable and the bike fired up. I can get the engine to the second click on the enricher but can only keep it running on a high idle setting with the enricher off and Idle knob turned in.
I'm starting at 2 1/2 turns on the Air screw. I have tried lower and higher and it does not seem to make much difference.
New boots, no air leaks
If I have spark on all four plugs but the cdi tests with an ohm meter bad, can I have a weak spark?

Considering the HEI ignition MOD. Will it work for the GPz 750?

Bike is running now! The cable change ended up shortening the length and pulling the butterfly valves off their seats disabling the enricher circuit. I knew it would be something stupid.
So I have a vacuum tester hooked up and I'm getting the Carbs synchronized. I need a better tool to loosen the jamb nut. I've seen a couple guys fabricate a tool bending a wrench, I'll come up with something. I am concerned though that when I give the motor some gas it still takes some time to wind down.
I'm going to recheck the fuel level in the bowls.
If after the levels are good,the air screws are adjusted, the timing checked, I'm a bit worried that I might be a tooth off on the cams. The book says 10mm exposed on the tensioner, I have 4mm. I lined up the cam marks with the block like the book said, but I did not count the pins. With the stretch I wonder if I could have been lulled into thinking I had the cams right, then once the cover went on and the tension taken up the slop equated into being off a tooth.
How would the engine react if I was off a tooth, anyone ever been there?
The HEI Ignition Mod worked really well. I recommend it to anyone that is having ignition module issues.

HAILCON71 wrote: ...I am concerned though that when I give the motor some gas it still takes some time to wind down....

Typically results from an air leak (carb holder, etc.), or sometimes from a timing advancer issue (sticking, etc.).

Good Fortune!

Little by little the engine is getting better and better. I installed the HEI ignition mod...bike ran better, plugs have a nice chocolate color to them.... but still no idle. I actually rode the bike and the valve train was really slapping around. I bought a chain breaker and installed a new cam chain. I also followed the advice of numerous individuals and installed an APE manual chain tensioner. The engine is really smooth and quiet....but still no idle. So It isn't ignition, it isn't cam timing or lack of tension, it isn't an air leak it has to be the CARBS. So I'll take them off again and instead of just spraying each carb I have set up a large tube with a Vacuum and I'm going to find out which carb is not drawing fuel through the pilot circuit by sucking water or vinegar through the pilot circuit.

Well I think I'm done. Other than cracking a beer every weekend an fiddling with this and that.
I installed a new cam chain and master link . That solved the slapping valve train. A new manual tensioner was another good addition. The engine is a lot tighter now.
The carb situation is also much better. I got out the synchronizer and found out #2 was not anywhere near the rest of the cylinders, I cleaned some gunk out of the adjuster mechanism, sync'ed 1/2 then 3/4...and the big change came when the center screw sync'ed 1-2 to 3-4. Anyone that tries to work on carbs without synchronizing gauges and tools is just winging it, I can't believe what a tiny turn on a screw can do for performance.
I want to thank; Patton, Kzjoe900, and Breaker19 for all the input. I couldn't have done it without ya!

Glad to help, I love these old NA bikes with multiple carbs, they're a challenge, but I can tell from your post you feel that overwhelming sense of satisfaction in conquering the Demon synchronization problem! No, go ride!

My bike is identical to yours and If my memory is right, #3 carb is not adjustable and the others have to be set to match it. I have a good memory, its just real short