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Mikaw, I just pulled the wafers out with long nose pliers. Be careful, there’s a small spring under each one. Yours may be stuck with dried lubricant.
To figure out the key, shove it in the cylinder and watch the wafers move up and down. With the proper key, all the wafers should end up flush with the core body. Once you know how the lock works you’re on your way.
You can move the wafers around to see if you can make them work with your key. You can even file the inside of a wafer to make it work. You don’t have to use all the wafers either, you can use only three or four or five if that’s all you can get to work. I suppose you can buy wafers individually.

Also, the wafers are rectangular and closed on all sides, unlike that core retainer.

I added an older Kawasaki helmet lock to a modern Kaw which didn’t come with one. I had to file the grooves in the core to make the new, thicker key fit. Then I could only get three wafers to work. I could have filed one of the left over wafers to make four but I figured three was plenty for a helmet lock. 

Blipco, I pulled pretty hard with needle nose pliers without a single wafer wanting to come out. They seem to be free and float up and down. Any thing I could be missing?
 

There is possibly some "burring" due to age and wear, I never done a bike but lots of VW's (new locks for doors, fuel flap etc used to come blank and we coded them to the original key)

Apparently there’s such a thing as "captive wafers". Yours may be one.
This guy has a double sided wafer core but samey same I guess. (I’m learning too).
You can skip to the 3:00 minute mark of the video to see how to remove.

Not the captured type. I used a trick shown in the video and tapped on the wafer from the bottom. Came right out. Tomorrow I’m going to my location locksmith and getting a key made. Then I’ll see we’re I’m at. Thanks for the help.

 

That wafer is a lot rougher looking than any one I ever worked with. No wonder it was tough to get out. It makes mr wonder how easily a key would slide into the lock. A good soaking in kerosene may help.
You should take your other locks from the bike to the locksmith if you want them keyed alike.

I would suggest de-blurring the housing with a rat tail file etc. Now it's out your lock guy should be able to change the wafers to fit your key (you can do it yourself, I looked on google but couldn't find any wafer kits that identified as being fit Kawasaki but I am sure some are right)
You do. one at a time, fit a wafer - put the key in and if the wafer doesn't pull flush try the next size wafer

I watch the Lock Picking Lawyer and Bosnianbill on YouTube for lock picking. I even bought a practice set with a clear padlock. I have good mechanical ability but it turns out I suck at picking locks if they are not clear see-through type, LOL. I think I have to remove the sharp edges off the cheap picks I got. The thing has been sitting in the draw for three years, I lost interest. Maybe this winter.

Anyways, once you figure out these simple wafer locks it’s quite satisfying. 

wrote:

That wafer is a lot rougher looking than any one I ever worked with. No wonder it was tough to get out. It makes mr wonder how easily a key would slide into the lock. A good soaking in kerosene may help.
You should take your other locks from the bike to the locksmith if you want them keyed alike.

The seat and steering lock are the same key, that’s why I’m experimenting here to see if I can buy a random ignition and rekey. Thanks for all the help.

  In full disclosure in very familiar with locks and their operations, nothing with motorcycle type or automotive. Im an old carpenter that specialized in doors. At one point a bought some keying equipment and started to build some clients in the locksmith realm. I just couldn’t be competitive on pricing and material stocked on a truck. I’d get to the job, figure out the problem and most time have to drive to the wholesale to get the items needed. I couldn’t charge the customer for the extra time, so I just ate it hoping to build equipment and stock. Just never got there. 

If the seat and steering lock are the same key, and that key physically fits into the ignition core, then you will be able to make the ignition lock work with the one key. 
If the ignition core isn’t quite the same as the other two cores, but close, you may be able to file the inside of the ignition core to make it work. I find it annoying to have more than one key for a bike.

Not sure if these generic automotive wafer sets would work for you, it appears in several of these kits there are only 4 sizes so it should be relatively painless to code any lock to any key ( this isn't the only kit available - just an example)

 

Wookie, if there’s only four different wafers it’s no wonder I’ve been successful at re-keying the locks I’ve worked on. I thought I just got lucky.