Alrighty I might as well fill this thread chock full of info, that I've learned thru the years, as possible. Steve I hope You approve, use it before it's lost it. Ok the three typs of dampers are shown in photo, left to right, early to later. Damper fluid I use, hey you can go down to your local hobby store and pick-it-up, cheap. I make my own mix depending if it's a speedo, stronger or tach, less viscosity. And no I don't use the needle for "other" purposes, i'm a clean gent. My wife is a vet so I get all the needles I need of different sizes if needed. I think this needle requires a #70 fractional. Because I showed a photo of re-painted oem switchblocks here is the on-off-on switch to make it new again. NOTE YOU will have to use the original 3 slotted ramp for the Z series, triples you are golden. If , as is always the case the singular ball bearing is crusty just shuffle down to a local hardware store that sells individual bearings and you are good. There You go for now, Much more to come, Hey Steve!! Not to make monies, just sharing what I Know what works thru many years
Just for You Steve. I dug up some Speedo (used) faces to relay what I was typing about earlier. See the Beveled window compared to the straight cut? Totally unique to the early 75 before they went to the straight cut, and I don't know of a source to purchase them, makes them more rare than the early offset ND to x1000 from the 73.
Glad You got them! The one with the slotted grub screw has a shaft with Two detents on it, so it's adjustable kinda. There is supposed to be, was not included, a round button of foam that acts as a spacer/dust seal/damper for the slotted version. I didn't have any worth sending, they were all hard and crumbly. A piece of single sided sticky door weatherstripping works, just cut a round slug, sticky side to the cup of knob and pilot center so shaft can be inserted. Aim for a slight interference fit when installation is complete.
Perfect Steve! Great to hear You got it all sorted. That u-tube video is neat, looks like you are working in a Hotbox though! Off the subject but what are You going to do with those Z1 shocks hanging on the wall? I rebuild the OEM ones because I don't do aftermarket. Re-chromed, Zinc plating and POP (plating on Plastic) the upper reflector holders.
Well it's better than the shade cover I have (now storage for my daughter's stuff) or under a tree as I had to for years. Almost turned my daughter's room into a shop, glad I didn't and built the shop. Seems if I start the A/C in the morning it stays cool all day.
The Z1 shocks are repops. They're just as bad as I remembered them back in the day. I threw away my old S&W's. Should have kept them and had Nils rebuild them. I wasn't on KZR and he wasn't a member yet. I got some progressive shocks and they work OK but the tire hits the fender when I hit a culvert in the street. I compared the old Z1 swing arm to the KZ 900 one I have now and they were the same. I'm just wondering if it's the frame I got ripped off on. Can't be that because I still have a 92 link 630 chain. I'm dressing out at 228 now where I was at 240. In 75 I was at 165 no matter what. Now I'm a lard ass. "What a drag it is being old."
Been so hot I've only had about two hours each morning to work on the truck. Doing the block seal took three days. Seems the weather is finally breaking so I'll be able to venture out after 9 AM. Got the part packaged up and will drop it off at the P.O. when I go into town. This last week has been MURDER.
You got it, thanks. It has two stars. Mic's out to 7.46
From the ad
New Genuine Kawasaki.This has a size or wide # of t=7.3.Verify for your model fitment.This damper looks like it goes behind starter clutch drive gear.Must help keep chatter down?Thanks for looking.