Interesting that it actually got lost? Usually at worst they unthread but are retained by the slot in the cone cover. Any-hoot I attached some photos of the two different styles. LH thread pitch/diameter is the same on both.
Yeah, I got the one without the set screw...so it looks like there is a little jam nut on there that is inside the gauge? I couldn't figure out how to get it off. Knowing for sure it is lh thread helps. SWest, I could send you the whole gauge. It was damaged in a crash. What do you want to pay for such a thing?
Hey buddy just to be sure. Peer down thru the hole and see if You have a small brass lock nut, this is a sure indication of the "later" speedo. See Photos. The early instruments did Not utilize a jam nut, later gauges did. As per photos the extra length of the threads made it possible to use the jam nut. Sometimes the brass nut will vibrate out but since you stated you could of just misplaced it? I'm just covering all bases to make sure You receive the correct item. And did I mention it's Yours, either version. I don't do a lot of forum stuff, too busy. Still like to help out where I can, Love these ole' vintage beasts. Let me Know, Clay
Got Your PM, will post today. Just a cleaver tip if You like to experiment. Take the 1/10 white(beige now) register wheel off left-over odometer register shown in photo and cover it in the product shown. Cover with product and put it in a sandwich baggie, put it outside in the sun. Let sit all day. Rinse product off with water. Ever so gently I use a q-tip wiping across numerals. Will be much whiter without removing numerals. Knob selection boxed-up and ready to ship.
You are very Welcome!! That's why we are all here, to Help. No problem with the conversion. Tach drives from a KZ650, KZ900, KZ1000 up to 77 all will work. There are 3 different styles but you cannot tell it once they are assembled. And they all share the calibration and 9000rpm. As far as the purchase of the repop face might I give you a bit of advice? They work wonderful BUT be careful when tightening the two retaining screws!! The plastic is MUCH more brittle than oem. I use them but i drill out the existing 2 screw holes with a 1/8" twist bit and make collars that are inserted into the holes just proud of the surface, see photo. The aftermarket faces are generally around 2.2-2.5mm thick.
Oh and one more thing to consider being it is a 75 Z. I have seen two versions. Some share the beveled opening for mileage and odometer and some are straight cut openings like KZ900-1000. Those beveled 10mph increment faces are not available, and I've tried calling companies that make faces. Cost would of been prohibitive because of the Min. lot numbers.
That is just a tip on the speedo just incase you will be doing a matching set. Also have a trick for doing the upper can, black gloss, that rivals the oem look if you are interested. Something anybody can do, provided the spouse doesn't mind you using the oven for a spell. Same goes for the switchblocks I do.