KZ305 won't start

Alright, I usually hate these type of threads, especially coming from a newbie, but here I am making one! :pinch:

Bought a KZ305 a couple weeks ago, and haven't really had a chance to mess with it until today. The bike looks pretty decent, only has about 9k miles on it, and is very clean. The previous owner gave up on it because he couldn't get it to run. After talking with him for a few minutes, it was obvious he didn't know what he was doing, so I figured it'd be an easy fix.

So, pulled it in the shop, put a battery in it, sprayed a small shot of starter fluid in the carbs, and spun it over. Motor turned easily, sounded good, but nothing happened. Pulled the plugs, and was getting spark, so decided to check a little further. Pulled the cover off to check the points, and they were a tad tight. Reset them, tried again, and still nothing. Checked the compression, and #1 was at 120, #2 was at 150. I realize that's not the best situation, but it should be enough for the bike to at least run. I attribute the numbers to the fact that the bike hasn't been ridden since '03.

Now, all of this has been with the fuel tank off (waiting for petcock kit to come in), and by spraying a shot of starter fluid in the carbs with the throttle held wide open and the choke off. It actually did hit one time on the #2 cylinder, and while cranking, it seems to hit harder on #2. I guess what I'm thinking is that somehow the timing is off, but I'm not quite sure how to check that. I have a factory service manual, and even after reading through it multiple times, I'm still here scratching my head.

Anyway, sorry for the long post, and any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I'd try a combo of starter fluid with a temporary gas supply (small lawnmower tank or the sort). I'd juice it with the fluid, leave the throttle alone, choke it, and see what happens.

I'm sure that you'll get a better answer from a pro, but that's what I'd do.

chopstar wrote:

I'd try a combo of starter fluid with a temporary gas supply (small lawnmower tank or the sort). I'd juice it with the fluid, leave the throttle alone, choke it, and see what happens.

I'm sure that you'll get a better answer from a pro, but that's what I'd do.

I'm not a pro but I'd definitly agree with you. A lawnmower tank works great for this.

You are going to need the float bowl full of gas anyway and what better way to check if the carbs and engine are getting gas.
Sounds like you have compression, you have spark and all you need is gas........well, maybe you do need ot set the timing

Post edited by: JR, at: 2006/07/21 11:51

Alright, got the petcock kit in a few minutes ago, and filled the tank with fresh VP110, carbs don't leak, but there is a leak in the plastic in-line filter someone installed. Have to find another one of those. Anyway, with the carbs full of fuel, it's doing the same thing. I'm really thinking it's a timing issue, I'm hoping the cam hasn't jumped time or something. I will be checking the valve lash when I get a chance, but I'm thinking that's not the problem since I have compression.

Post edited by: Joel07, at: 2006/07/21 12:24

After you crank the engine take a look at the plugs. Are they wet with gas ?
If not then perhaps gas not getting through - blockage in carb. Could be possible if the bike was sitting for a long time.

Having said that you are right in taking a look at the timing first. You did say it had points right ? A lot of Kawis had electronic timing by 1980 which was not adjustable.

Hopefully an expert will be along soon.

Yep, definetly points. I was actually thinking it was a carb issue from the first time I looked at the bike, but usually you can still get them to crank off of the starter fluid. Will be doing some more checking next week, thanks for the help so far!

The carbs are not contributing anything to the starting of the bike when you shoot ether in the combustion chambers. I suspect the choke pickup tubes and pilot jets are likely clogged; especially if you have asertained the bowls have gas in them.

You can set the points using a static method and test light. I suggest you get a manual to help you do this. Once running, timing is best set dynamically using a strobe type timing light. I would install new points/condensor, plug wires and caps and new plugs as well.

I would also MEASURE valve clearance and rectify tight clearances before proceeding to ignition work. A tight valve may be lowering compression on one side and will make any eventual carb balancing tough.

Thanks for the suggestions wiredgeorge. I do plan on going through the carbs, so I'll be sure to check them closely when I do that.

Another thing I noticed while messing with it a few minutes ago is that there's a tear in one of the rubber intake manifolds. Would that be enough to cause a no-start condition? I realize that I have various problems all over the place, but my main concern is that I'm not getting a starting off of starter fluid. Even a worn out hunk of junk will usually at least hit a few times off of that stuff.

By intake manifold do you mean the piece between carb and engine ? if so then a visible tear could be a good part of your problem.

Yes, in between the carb and engine. Anyone know a good place for finding these intakes? Or if they're interchangeable with the 400/440's? Having a bit of trouble finding them.

Going to pull the carbs off later today, and see what I find, I'll update later...

Just as an update, pulled the carbs off today, and with a quick shot of starter fluid into each cylinder, still got nothing. I'm thinking it's got to be timing, everything else is working. Next free chance I get I'll be pulling the valve cover to check cam timing, I'll let you all know what I find.

Also, I did find a set of intake boots, and they should be here next week.

Post edited by: Joel07, at: 2006/08/01 09:28

Joel07 wrote:

...and filled the tank with fresh VP110...

What is VP110? I hope it's 87 octane regular gas and not high-octane.
Of course, using high octane won't stop your bike from starting like you describe, but it's bad for these old bikes... unless you have high compression in that 305...