Intake valves

After all the issues I've had with my 1982 Kawasaki kz750e I have seriously been thinking about selling it since I haven't even been able to ride it but to the end of the driveway and back not to mention that I have even caught myself on fire and was burned pretty good, I think I'm going to keep at it and get this thing running. I need some help though with a list of whatever parts I'm going to  need down to the T if possible.

​​​​​I would like to check the timing and replace the valves. I have spark on all the cylinders but a couple has kind of a weak spark.  Is this a difficult job? I replaced my starter clutch without taking the engine out which I have heard that it was a difficult job. I thought it was really easy and did it within a few hours so is the valve job harder than that?

Why do you want to replace your valves?

 

Have you checked cmpression and valve lash?


.

I think I have a leaking valve. Honestly it's the only thing I haven't checked or replaced on this thing. I know that a little white smoke comes out the exhaust when turning over, it won't crank, and it has a little leak from the tach and two of the exhaust ports where the headers connect. 

wrote:

Have you checked cmpression and valve lash?



No sir I have no clue how to do that. It has good compression but a couple plugs have better spark than the other two 
 

Which two have weak spark?

Checking the valve lash is fairly simple. Adjusting ones that are out of range is a little more complicated, but perfectly doable by anybody with basic mechanical aptitude , some patience and the ability to follow instructions. The factory service manual will be invaluable———

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

wrote:

Which two have weak spark?

#1 #4

I just checked clearance and I couldn't get the .002 or .003   gauge in them and some were very roomy. I don't know which ones they were but I know they aren't right at all and I don't have any parts to get them right or anything so i guess I need to write down the measurements and go from there huh?
 

wrote:

Checking the valve lash is fairly simple. Adjusting ones that are out of range is a little more complicated, but perfectly doable by anybody with basic mechanical aptitude , some patience and the ability to follow instructions. The factory service manual will be invaluable———

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf


I have a copy of the manual but it's not a good print out at all and I can't make out more than half of it. Besides I have a very hard time with reading instructions and then doing what it says, I'm more of a hands on and learn as I go buy I really don't want to screw it up so I really appreciate everyone's help and patience with me
 

Cylinders 1 & 4 are fired by the same coil, so the problem is on that side. Which sparkplugs are you using? Are the secondary wires and caps in good shape? Connections to the coil clean and snug?

You should measure all of the valves and write down what you find. You will then need to pull the adjustment shims out of each valve that is out of spec. Pull them out one at a time, and write down the thickness of the shim. At this point you will have two numbers for each valve that is out of range. The factory shims have the thickness printed on one side, but I recommend measuring each one to be sure. With those two numbers, you can calculate how much thinner the shim needs to be. You may be able to shift some shims around to get where you need to be, and then you will know which shims to buy. A shim kit with a variety of sizes will save quite a bit of time, though there may be some sizes that you never use.

since you have a 750, the cams will have to be removed to get to the shims. Read the procedure in the manual several times, and ask lots of questions here.  The procedure is described on pages 12-14. The text on those pages is perfectly clear in the link I posted. The pictures are not great, but I am sure you can figure it out. If not, just post a question here.

wrote:

TexasKZ post=870152

Cylinders 1 & 4 are fired by the same coil, so the problem is on that side. Which sparkplugs are you using? Are the secondary wires and caps in good shape? Connections to the coil clean and snug?

You should measure all of the valves and write down what you find. You will then need to pull the adjustment shims out of each valve that is out of spec. Pull them out one at a time, and write down the thickness of the shim. At this point you will have two numbers for each valve that is out of range. The factory shims have the thickness printed on one side, but I recommend measuring each one to be sure. With those two numbers, you can calculate how much thinner the shim needs to be. You may be able to shift some shims around to get where you need to be, and then you will know which shims to buy. A shim kit with a variety of sizes will save quite a bit of time, though there may be some sizes that you never use.

since you have a 750, the cams will have to be removed to get to the shims. Read the procedure in the manual several times, and ask lots of questions here.  The procedure is described on pages 12-14. The text on those pages is perfectly clear in the link I posted. The pictures are not great, but I am sure you can figure it out. If not, just post a question here.



I really appreciate it, I wrote down what the clearances are
#1- .006 little snug
#2- .004
#3- .006
#4- .006 little snug
#5- .004
#6- .004
#7- .003 a little snug
#8- .004

Is this good or bad?

Those readings aren’t bad. Not great, not terrible.
Heres a good step by step procedure for that adjustment.
www.riderforums.com/threads/zr-7s-valve-...t-with-pics-1.52880/