Removing intake manifold boots

In worse case, can it be a soultion to remove the gas tank and cut the boots with a saw in pieces to get it removed?

Hi I'm new here, broke a screw on my Z1 with a philips, had to drill and tap a new 6m in, just took a set off a csr 2 or 3 came out easy, used heat gun on the rest, took out with a klein 10 way screw driver, couple minutes with heat works wonders, alum expands!

If the link works this guy tests all different things. loudhvx posted a video of rust removal fluid comparison. The guy seems unbiased and appears to be constant in his test procedures. Just for what it’s worth.

We didn’t get an outcome on this post hope you made progress.

One thing to keep in mind it really is best to let the fastener soak in the penetrant for a couple days if at all possible. This gives the penetrant time to soak into the area immediately around the fastener to break the bond. I have used Kroil and let it soak for 3 days and never had a problem removing a fastener. Below is an image of the Kroil that I use. Ed

The problem with using penetrating oil on the boots is that the screw head is embedded into rubber and the the rubber seals out the penetrant. I still use it since it shouldn't hurt, but I have my doubts on whether it gets in to where it's needed.

If you could mechanically remove the boots (which have a metal skeleton inside) that would help, but that means cutting metal right next to the intake, which seems dangerous. I have seen the rust on those so bad that the bolt actually breaks in the hole, so even if you get the head to spin, half of the bolt can be left behind.

It's never a pretty situation.

Someone mentioned heat. That's a best friend in the battle of steel fastener in aluminum threads.

Striking the screw head itself with a flat punch or using an impact bit to act as a punch inserted in the head and striking that a few times with a hammer to shock the corrosion often helps.

Don't know about OP's bike specifically, but the bottom manifold holes on Z1's are drilled through, exposing the end of the screw to atmosphere. Thant's almost always the one(s) most prone to be a problem. We make sure we apply penetrant into that hole, to get penetrant into the threads from behind.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Once removed I always replace Phillips head screws with Allen head ones, saves a lot of grief in the future.

By Mikaw: if the link works this guy tests all different things. loudhvx posted a video of rust removal fluid comparison. The guy seems unbiased and appears to be constant in his test procedures. Just for what it’s worth. ....

He said he's never seen any result using penetrating fluids in the past. ?!?!? That seems strange to me. I've removed all sorts of fasteners using a penetrant & in some cases, such as the carb holders screws, I wouldn't even touch a wrench before applying the stuff & giving it time to work. LW is what I use, so at least he came to a reasonable conclusion. hee.