TOPIC:

There is a lot to be said for sticking to OEM for other parts as well. This shows why.

When I was re-doing the top end on my KZ-1000 I needed to replace almost all the shims due do the work that was done. I had read on this forum about using aftermarket valve shims and I tried to stay with OEM items. This thread got me thinking, is there an easy way to tell if the shims are OEM or not, short of seeing them deteriorate from use? Some of the shims I used had the size numbers stamped on them and some had the size numbers printed on them. A couple of my old ones didn't have any size designation on them, but that could have been from putting them in wrong side up. Errrrrrrr, something else to worry about when it gets warm enough to ride the thing.
Rick H.

Nessism wrote: ... I've got scads of shims and took them to where I work and checked hardness of the metal (all were good.)...

What Rockwell (or Mohs) hardness range was the result?

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

hardrockminer wrote: There is a lot to be said for sticking to OEM for other parts as well. This shows why.

That is a good moto however like I mentioned I've used aftermarket shims for decades without issue. So got used to the quality being the same as OEM now that the quality is no longer there I'll never use K&L products again. I was a long time customer.
If you have a bunch of shims there is no practical way to determine which shim is Kawasaki and which is not. They all look the same once out of their packaging.

73z1 wrote: Any oi is good, the shims have to be hard or this happens.

...oils with ZDDP, as recommended on this here forum.
Also, those shims directly bear the increased pressures of high-lift cams and HD valve springs.

Got me wondering, do both shim faces have equal hardness, and does that hardness weaken over time with use?

Sorry, Suzuki GS shims. Top three are K&L, bottom two are OEM.