TOPIC:

I'd remove the pistons and rings for a good cleaning at least. That carbon gets everywhere and can cause deep scratches in the bores.
I'd also go with new rings and a good hone.
Don't ask me how I know.
Steve

Some side play in the valves is normal. This is a snip from the factory 1000 manual showing how to test the play. Spec allows quite a bit of clearance.

I'm leaning towards new rings and a hone because I don't plan to go back into this engine ever again.

Yes, I have that valve spec but I don't have a dial gauge. Maybe I should buy a gauge....would be cheaper than replacing the guides and seals, except I've already ordered and paid for them.

The engine is out of the frame. I started stripping it. The attached photos show what it looks like from the bottom. Not bad for 44 years!

If the guides are replaced you have to recut the seats which greatly adds to the cost.

Do yourself a BIG favor, considering that motor is some 44 years old, and since you don't want to ever tear it down again.

Have someone that knows what they are doing, not someone that can just cut the seats. Have them replace the guides, and do a proper valve job. I would trash the 44 year old valve springs too!!!!!

I get a big chuckle when I read when someone had a valve job done by someone they know in a lawn mower shop, and now they have ZERO valve clearance upon assembly!!!!! Of all the heads that I had the valve seats freshen up on, I never had to go down more than 2 to 5 shim sizes after assembling the head.

I like people that use the old Kwik-Way setup that uses stones to dress up or cut the valve seats. Or someone that uses a Serdi machine to do the seats. Those valve seat tools that use carbide cutters just remove too much valve seat material too quick!!!

I cut my own valve seats using Neway carbide cutters and thought they were wonderful. I used a sharpy to track progress (stop cutting when the pattern suggests it's time.) When the cutting blades are brand new they cut easily but they dull down pretty fast.

Looks great
Steve

When I replaced my valve guides I had Clupper Racing do the three angle seat grind. They didn't touch the valves. It was just a matter of the two extra grinds leaving the original seat then cleaning it up. Didn't lose too much but after two more laps and new valves I finally lost my clearance on two exhaust valves so I tipped all of them. I suspect I'll have to go with larger valves next time.
It was a 40 year old KZ900 head.
Steve
johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/3-angle-valve-job/

The seats still look good so I don't think a lot of cutting is needed....just a careful touch. In the past I've used an aircraft machinist in Vancouver. He has his own shop and does mostly motorcycles.

I took the auto mechanics course at North Iowa Community College in the 77-78 era. I had 2 years formal classroom and shop training with the physics and math classes required courses. (and a lifetime of technical experience) During that time in school, I was working at a small neighborhood auto repair shop called "Skippys" or some sh!t about 5 miles from the school. The guy was a redneck a-hole, but I did learn a lot from ol skippy while he criticized the stuff I told him my instructors taught me. (2 much respected local area ex-dealer techs)

I was trained on the old sunnen stone type machine with water/oil lubricated dressed stones for everything. Expensive machine. Motorcycle tools are typically smaller than auto or truck tools which makes lawnmower shops >the< people with the proper sized tools. These tiny valves all need the proper sized tools and the average sizes of the stones and stone holders all needs to be bought. A lawnmower has a lot closer valve sizes rather than my 68 GTO ground pounder or a cummins diesel valve sizes.. Tiny stuff. Lawnmowers sized tools needed.. It sometimes costs more for the tools to do the job than the job or bike is worth.

96 Zx1100 head. Still untouched, but I know it needs cleaning and seals. Lots of tiny valves.


In the 50's-60's era, engine blocks and alloy contents made them wear so badly, that rebuilds and refreshing were "recommended" on some motors at 24K miles, by then you had to cut out a 1/16" ring ridge on the top of the block to be able to be able to beat those slugs out of that carbon encrusted combustion chamber. The causes were primarily prior to massive advances in engine block metallurgy . Remember the vega sleeved 4 cylinder motor that never made it out of warranty? lol Buick helped immensely with the alloys used by the Turbo Buick V-6 grand national racing program utilizing the "109" turbo blocks. You could then still see the original crosshatch in the bores after 50K neglected miles.

I did a light deglaze, these cast sleeve bores look great.

Nessism wrote: I cut my own valve seats using Neway carbide cutters and thought they were wonderful. I used a sharpy to track progress (stop cutting when the pattern suggests it's time.) When the cutting blades are brand new they cut easily but they dull down pretty fast.

I tried to send Ed a PM about a link to buy the Neway seat cutter he got for his head. The page was in German and I couldn't change it so I'll post it here too.
Steve