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1978 kz200A - at my wits end on why it wont catch
- RustToRedemption
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- Jaytraeg
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If the valves are too tight, they will likely give great compression readings but won't let any gas enter the cylinder.
Also, check the timing. If you're getting spark at the wrong time, the engine won't fire for a damn,
Best of luck!
1981 KZ440 LTD
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- old_kaw
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www.wonderopolis.org/wonder/how-does-an-engine-work
Dry the plug off, crank the motor with the plug out to clear the cylinder, reinstall the plug, then give it a >small< shot of starting fluid into the carb. Dribbling gas into anything hardly ever works but if done properly, can be quite the exciting experience. :woohoo:
Also, if not already done, double check the spark after you mess with the points.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
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- RustToRedemption
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old_kaw wrote: Probably flooded. Wet plugs won't spark. The internal combustion engine needs 4 things to run. Here is some theory. Knowing how things work is a good thing.
www.wonderopolis.org/wonder/how-does-an-engine-work
Dry the plug off, crank the motor with the plug out to clear the cylinder, reinstall the plug, then give it a >small< shot of starting fluid into the carb. Dribbling gas into anything hardly ever works but if done properly, can be quite the exciting experience. :woohoo:
Also, if not already done, double check the spark after you mess with the points.
I've confirmed spark after cleaning and resetting the points. In the dozen other motorcycles I've resurrected I've never had an issue dribbling a little bit of gas into the cylinder, turning it over a couple times to get the air/fuel mix correct, and then getting it to briefly run. I'm guessing tight valves like Jaytraeg said, or maybe the timing is off (another thing I didn't check but should have). Thanks for the reply.
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- TexasKZ
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1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- old_kaw
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The valves would have to be so far out that it's huffing out of the exhaust or carbs when cranked for it not to fire with a shot of ether. (would also not have much compression) Ether works well at detecting spark and compression.
Good luck.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
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- Patton
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RustToRedemption wrote: . . . tried spritzing gas into the intake as I turned it over and got nothing. . . .
Would try spritzing "starter spray" instead of gas to see if the engine momentarily runs.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- RustToRedemption
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Edit: plug is very sooty, even running on one turn out on the air screw, definitely way too rich. Betting the “professional” carb cleaning included adding way too large of jets to the carb, or screwing up the needle setting
Edit 2: swapped in the stock air screw and idle adjustment screws, and now it’s purring at idle. Will still crack open the carb to swap back in the stock pilot, main, and needle.
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- RustToRedemption
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Valves: Check and set clearances per manual
Points: Clean and set clearances
Timing: Verify timing is correct
After the above 3 were performed, I verified spark.
Air Filter: Cleaned and re-oiled air filter to ensure proper air flow was entering carb.
Carbs: #1 rebuild kits are garbage, don't use the supplied jets or needle, they may physically fit, but they are not correct for a stock configuration. #2 cleaned carb and jets by soaking/ultrasonic, blew compressed air through every passage to verify they were clear. #3 checked and adjusted float height
After all of this was performed, and I hooked up the gas tank to the carb, I opened drain screw to verify gas was entering the carb (this is what led me to perform #3 above).
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- martin_csr
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- RustToRedemption
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martin_csr wrote: Sooty plug could be poor ignition. maybe a weak or bad battery. since you're having a charging system problem.
....
Could be, but unlikely. The battery was brand new, and then was on a tender when it wasn't being used. I verified battery charge with a voltmeter prior to trying to get it to start the second time in case I had zonked the battery (I hadn't).
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- baldy110
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So what you are saying is perform required maintenance? Who would have ever thought that lack of maintenance would be a problem.RustToRedemption wrote: Just to wrap this up, for anyone looking in the future if they have a similar problem these are the things that fixed my no start issue:
Valves: Check and set clearances per manual
Points: Clean and set clearances
Timing: Verify timing is correct
After the above 3 were performed, I verified spark.
Air Filter: Cleaned and re-oiled air filter to ensure proper air flow was entering carb.
Carbs: #1 rebuild kits are garbage, don't use the supplied jets or needle, they may physically fit, but they are not correct for a stock configuration. #2 cleaned carb and jets by soaking/ultrasonic, blew compressed air through every passage to verify they were clear. #3 checked and adjusted float height
After all of this was performed, and I hooked up the gas tank to the carb, I opened drain screw to verify gas was entering the carb (this is what led me to perform #3 above).
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