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Torque 03 Dec 2018 23:03 #794592

  • old_kaw
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hardrockminer wrote: I predict the next thread will be how to install a heli coil. (or a Time sert.) (Just kidding!)

Anxiously awaiting this one. lol

I did not see this tidbit listed in the above info.. Also always crank the torque wrench to zero when storing it to help maintain it's calibration.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.

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Last edit: by old_kaw.

Torque 08 Dec 2018 18:20 #794837

  • Sayonara
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Thank for the replies are been very encouraging, All I wanted to know is how much toque should I have applied to the head nut in pounds. the rest I could take care of them.
I am not a mechanic or mechanical engineer I am a self taught guy that likes to get the hands dirty and do my own things, I had built my GS back in the day and did not have torque,service manual and internet did not even exist, and my bikes were the fastest in town even faster than any kz that could come across.
things have move on and I am trying to use the resources available right now thats why I am here asking questions in a humble way but the arrogance is out of the question.
By the way If a cam screw is over torqued don't take the tread out, it breaks the screw inside,then has to be machined out an preserves the tread as I have seen it before.
Heli coils is taking it to the extreme.
thanks for answers some are useful and some ?
I grew up riding and fixing all sort of small bike until I inherited A 1977 GS 750 when I was 16, that changed my life completely I love metric bike and I own a few fully working and have some projects.

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Last edit: by Sayonara.

Torque 09 Dec 2018 05:36 #794848

  • hardrockminer
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Apologies for any sarcasm. Yes, I am a mechanical engineer. 13 ft lbs is too high for the cam bearings. I believe the book says 95 to 105 inch lbs. I only go to the low end of the range. Anytime I work on the head I clean all the holes by passing a tap through them and putting the bolts through a die.

Yes you can break a bolt in a hole, but the bolts are made of steel while the head is aluminum and will usually fail first. Early Z1's are more prone to thread damage because the cam bolts (the black ones) are 2mm shorter than later ones. (Stainless ones) I've never broken a bolt on the cam bearings but I've stripped threads and had to use heli coil to repair them. Nowadays I use Time Serts but I haven't had to use them for several years.
I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.

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Last edit: by hardrockminer.

Torque 10 Dec 2018 12:30 #794898

  • kevski
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Another thing to be careful of is if you have chromed cam cap bolts, these have an even lower torque setting because they have a lower friction property than the plain steel bolts.
The following user(s) said Thank You: hardrockminer

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Torque 11 Dec 2018 07:36 #794940

  • loudhvx
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As mentioned, clean out the holes! Cam caps and valve cover bolt holes. The valve cover holes tend to accumulate sealer and oil. In a blind hole, the bolt will still feel slightly loose even when stripping threads because the oil and silicone are such good lubricants, but do not compress.

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Torque 18 Dec 2018 17:46 #795390

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Thank you for the replies its been helpful.
I grew up riding and fixing all sort of small bike until I inherited A 1977 GS 750 when I was 16, that changed my life completely I love metric bike and I own a few fully working and have some projects.

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