TOPIC:

I've been working with my 2002 KZ1000P clutch. First off I failed at an attempt at adjusting it. Turned the adjuster the wrong way and over extended the release mech. Got that sorted and while I was at it I replaced the clutch cable. The shifting still felt overly harsh so I tore into the clutch pack to check things in there. Everything checked out within spesc and I put it back together. Adjusted the clutch again but it still doens't seen right. I re adjusted the pushrod and I'm at a point where I "think" I'm right at the edge of over extending it again.

I've ordered new OEM friction plates in hopes that since this is a new to me bike.....maybe the incorrect oil was used and that's causing my hard shifting. (worst at start up from cold) . Okay, it's only money and I'm a parts changer not a mechanic.....never pretended to be.

SO........here's my dumb question for today.

The manual states (concerning clutch rod adjustment) that you are to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment screw (clockwise/counter clockwise depending on the model) unttil is starts to become hard to turn.

What the hell does THAT mean??????????? I've turned the screw until I just started to feel resistance. Then backed off the 1/4 turn. That couldn't have been right because of the way the bike went into first. So I redid it all over again, backing off the middle cable adjuster, having about 1/4" of play at the lever to start with and this time I screwed the adjuster screw in until I coulldn't turn it anymore. and then backed off 1/4 turn. It made it better BUT......I'm not sure what the hell "until it starts to become hard to turn" means?????
I understand what the rod is doing and the last adjustment left the screw about 1/8 turn in further than it was the first time (actually about the 5th time)

So.......KZ1000 where do you stop your rod adjustment screw? When you start to feel resistance or when it stops turning or somewhere in between?????

I need to know what works..........help a brother out please.

Gordon in NC

Did you grease the clutch release ramp mechanism? If not, do so. Medium thickness marine grease works great for that application. Secondly, did you oil your new clutch cable? If not, do that too.

Oh Lord......THANK YOU Nessism for taking the time to reply but......................................that doesn't make any sense at all???????????

First, yes I greased everything.....I use Bel-Ray waterproof greese here in the shop. Secondly, yes I always lube new cables as long as they are not lined....been doing that for years.

Now......here's where you lost me. The manual tells me to back off of the two cable adjustments. The one at the handlebar lever and the mid-point adjustment. There is no adjustment at the cable to case condition??? Now IF you do that.....you would have to exert a lot of pressure with the screw to take the slack out of the handlebar lever???? Even when I took the rod adjustment screw in to a point it wouldn't turn any more there was still slack at the handle bar lever. Te manual states that I am to take up all that slack with the mid-point adjustment located at the midpoint of the cable. Then gain my 1/8" slack at the handle bar lever with the final adjustment at the handle bar lever.

I'm probably just missing something here......I can be a bit lame but I don't see me taking out all the slack in the handlebar lever by the rod adjustment only????????

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gordon in NC

By Gordoninnc: ....
The manual states (concerning clutch rod adjustment) that you are to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment screw (clockwise/counter clockwise) depending on the model) unttil is starts to become hard to turn.

What manual are you using & in what direction are you turning the clutch release adjusting screw?

On my 81 650 the Kawasaki om & service manuals specifically say to turn it counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn. The 1000P models have the same adjusting screw, so I'd guess they're done the same. ??? It may be a LH-threaded screw.

Okay fellows bear with me here.

Index the release mech. I had a post on this earlier in this process.....with photos attached. There are three balls/ramps so there is only (the way I see it) three ways they can be oriented. Two out of the three don't even get close to lining up with the cable boss in the case. If this was the worm drive type adjuster I could see you getting the "indexing" off but this one??????

martin, that's the mistake I made the first time around......turned the adjuster the wrong way and the release overextended itself. My manual says clockwise but my model works the other way. I didn't do enough research the first time around.

What you describe is exactly what my question is......what does "hard to turn" mean? meeting resistance or where you can't turn the screw any more.......or somewhere in between????????????? In my case there's about 1/8 of a turn difference between the two>

Gordon in NC

Removed to eliminate confusion

Nessism, when you say "threaded adjuster on the case" Do you mean the rod adjustment screw and lock nut under the small rectangular case cover?

Just want to be sure we are both on the same page. I told you I can be lame at times and being at the bottom of the learning curve is a pain sometimes.

I'll get this.....sooner or later......or break something trying!!!!!

Gordon

I loosen the cable, adjust the screw until I feel ANY resistance then back it off 1/4 turn. Take the slack out of the cable in the middle but with some cables the adjuster is too short then final adjustment at the lever.
Steve

Gordoninnc wrote: Nessism, when you say "threaded adjuster on the case" Do you mean the rod adjustment screw and lock nut under the small rectangular case cover?

Gordon

Yes, that's it.

Steve, what you describe is the way I adjust 98% of my other bikes...for years. Move the screw until you "just" feel the rod/rods touch the pressure plate then back it off. That way you KNOW the rod is not running on the plate. AND....that's the way I interpreted the instructions in the KZ manual But.....I REALLY didn't like the crunch in the tranny at start up. Geeze it clunked before but this time it was like I'd been hit with a sledgehammer. So I went back and turned the screw until it stopped turning THEN backed it off. Better but I don't think that was the way to do it. I do like the idea that the pressure plate has a bearing for the rod to run on but I'm pretty sure that by design it's not supposed to be on there all the time???

I'm trying to wrap my head around what Nessism is telling me. I "think" I understand what he's saying but it goes against what I've been reading....... but heck......it's worth a try and worst case is I over extend the release again and I learned how to sort that.

I've got my fingers crossed that my problem is with the friction plates being soaked in oil that wasn't meant to be in a motorcycle engine. We'll see soon, the new OEM plates are ordered and when they get here they will get a good soak and then we'll see if that does it. Worst case is, I end up with a good used set of plates on the shelf.

Thanks for the help fellows.......Gordon in NC

There is a steel ball the rod rides up against. The 1/4 turn makes sure no pressure is present forcing the ball against the throwout and the rod so they won't spin weld together. Had that happen and cracked two sprocket covers. Regardless if the wrong oil was used or not, the plates can become stuck together if sitting for a while so a couple may separate but the rest won't resulting in a dragging clutch. These trannys are supposed to have a "clunk" providing a positive shift. I've had compliments from other riders on how the Z1 shifts and takes "command of the road." I'd be worried if it didn't.
Steve

Steve, sometime around 1982 Kawasaki replaced the 3/8" steel ball with a bearing and a rod holder. That's the set up I have with the 2002. That might be about the same time they went from the worm type adjuster to the ball and ramp?????

Soooooooooo.........I don't have a ball but the connection between the rod holder and the rod is kinda sorta the same....metal on metal and I can't imagine it should touch all the time.

PART of the problem is my manual.......if somebody could point me in the right direction I'd like to come up with a manual that's just for the 2002.....or at least in that decade. The manual that I have is for early 80s and the best I can tell (even from Kawasaki) it's used for my 2002 model????? I can't find the correct supplement for the P-21 model. I've looked a LOT but from what I found this is the only manual available????

Okay......I'm worn out on it and got work to do on another bike. Once I get the plates I'll see if that helps. Yea I've dealth with sticking plates with some of my Brit Iron....BTDT.

IF....nothing changes I'll just have to learn to live with it......or learn how to rebuilt the transmission.

Later fellows........thanks for taking the time to help.......Gordon in NC