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Loss of power when passing
- ahot1968
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- JoHNY
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Kawasaki Z750P7 Spectre, Triumph Daytona 955i, Honda CBR1000FN
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- ahot1968
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- ahot1968
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- martin_csr
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High beam load test -->> charge the battery w a motorcycle smart charger-->> 12.6+ VDC;
Ign switch on & headlight high beam on (engine off) -->> a good battery will drop to about 12.2 VDC.
If it drops below 12 VDC, the battery may need replacing; if it drops below 11 VDC, the battery is probably shot.
I have a Scorpion AGM from batterystuff.com and use a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & VC97 digital multimeter.
If the battery passes the load test, ride the bike at highway speeds, then stop & feel the coils; they should be warm, not hot. press hard with your fingers. don't get burned by the valve cover. practice touching them when the engine is cold. You can also check them for cracks or damage. A coil can pass the resistance checks outlined in the manual but still be bad under load.
Also, check or redo the spark plug wire connections at all points. unscrew the ribbed compression boots at the coils to redo those connections. If the wires have the crusty oxidation, nip off the ends a tad. Or go ahead & install new spark plug wires & caps. Check & lubricate the timing advancer. operate it by hand to make sure it snaps back.
Also, make sure the fuel tank petcock is functioning normally.
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- ahot1968
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- martin_csr
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not trying to be an azz, just want to make sure it isn't something simple.
If not done so, load test the battery & check it with a digital multimeter. One time my bike started running poorly at speed, then quit. It would restart & run at low speeds fine: the electrolyte had gotten low. doh. About a year later, same running problem; the electrolyte level was fine, but the battery failed the tests. I replaced it with a Scorpion AGM & am very pleased with that battery. It tested 12.79 VDC straight out of the box. I went ahead & put in on the smart charger for curiosity's sake, and it cycled thru the settings quickly.
When originally getting the bike road ready, there was an intermittent firing problem. After checking & setting everything as per the factory service manual, the problem turned out to be poor spark plug connections. cleaned them up, problem solved. Some time after that, the bike was running funny at speed, it was kind of subtle. The problem turned out to be the coils which were getting very hot to the touch, even though they passed the resistance checks. I installed new green Dyna 3.0 ohm coils & spark plug wire set from Z1Enterprises.com. The grey 2.2 ohm are supposed to be a better match for the stock electronic ignition, but I got the green ones in case I ever needed to get the Dyna S.
Another time my bike started running terrible. The petcock diaphragm failed, evidenced by fuel spraying out of it. doh.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Patton
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Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- ahot1968
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- Z1Driver
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Blue 1975 Z1B
Red 2009 Concours 14
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- martin_csr
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That seems low. shouldn't it be about 14.5 VDC? did you do a load test?ahot1968 wrote: I have 13.6 avg. at 4000 RPM I have been running the bike daily and one day last week the loss of power happened I pulled the carbs and cleaned them out with carb cleanner took out the pilot jet but did not completely disassemble the carbs
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