Worth the money to repair? please help

Are you talking about the right side of motor while youre sitting on the bike,ignition cover side? J series motors are definitely more prone to crank issues than the z/kz series motors,but Id definitely check all the simple things first.

It's in the bottom left side of the bike while sitting on it.

FWIW, even if the motor is bad, you could find a motor that works well on the cheaper side I am quite sure. The bike looks nice compared to what they look like stock. Personally, I am glad that this wasn't done to a pre 81 kz 1000 so I can rest easy and say that it looks to be an improvement over the stock version and if you like it then that is just the cost of owning an older bike.
I'm not even going to say what I have in to mine but let's just say for the paint alone I got you beat with the amount of money I have spent. If you really like riding the bike then fix it. I certainly would. It's not big deal to spend a grand. That's chump change. You aren't ever going to own a bike that doesn't need parts replaced so get used to it.

So, back to the engine. Look at this as an excellent opportunity to build the motor with some bulletproof and go fast stuff. If later you decide you don't like the bike, you can always get another J Model bike that you do like and swap out the engine. This is a shaftie? If that is the case, just find another motor you can put in yourself after you find a bike that someone is selling with no title for cheap.

I'm going to jump in here and suggest YOU fix it. The bike looks great and I'm sure you poured your heart into getting it just the way you wanted it during the build. One thing I have learned here on the forum is to ride these good old bikes first and then decide what to do with them. Sometimes when they are off the road for a decade it takes a few 100 miles to really understated previous problems.

A wise man once said, don't waste your money until you have it registered to your name, otherwise you can't ride it (legally). If that makes sense.

Ok, I do suggest YOU fix it and DO ALL THE WORK YOURSELF. Wrenching is a great way to fully understand everything about your bike and also save money. Although sometimes you do throw away a few bucks to learn a lesson (or two). I speak from my experience and the time I spent in my garage learning about my bike and would not do it any other way.

You mentioned someone did your valve check and another quoted you 1K on the work. Best advice I have to offer ifs get your hands dirty. Get A Factory Service Manual and for all we know those replaced valve shims could be the culprit.

...just my 79 cents.

She's Purdy!!

cafebrat wrote: It's in the bottom left side of the bike while sitting on it.

Id pull the stator and rotor off and start checking there there then.

PLUMMEN wrote:

cafebrat wrote: It's in the bottom left side of the bike while sitting on it.

Id pull the stator and rotor off and start checking there there then.

That sounds about right and what else Line Artist said...you have to get it running and ride it sometimes before the ugly problems raise their heads.
I bought my ltd1000 with 5000 miles on it and figured I would just jam on ordering fix up parts for it and that it would run great after a tuneup. Had the pipes off and Vance on with pods before you could blink an eye. Man, I had so many problems with that bike for so many miles that I regretted what I did. I got her going but spent money that should have been spent first on getting it going. Then bought another bike on the cheaps with low miles and it had a blown head gasket. That one is the one I spent a boat load of money on and now I still need more to finish it right. Four years and no riding on it so...

It could be the crank is slipping on the stator, like a sheered pin? Plummen?

The original air box is the key to getting these good old bikes running good (even with a V&H exhaust). I don't know enough about pods but I certainly read plenty about endless hours of wrenching and trying all sorts of jet configurations. And why is that necessary, does the HP jump into the 100's, does it get better MPG - hellz no. It's just looks different (cool to some). The base fact is the air box supplies all the necessary air for a stock engine. If you spent 1000's on your engine then maybe a top end pod setup will be a compliment. However at that point you may as well go for the turbo and nitros setup, beef up the suspension, brakes, wheels and clip the handlebars right onto the fork, head between your knees.

I better stop, think my point is made.

Well, when I put pods on my bike and tuned there was a night and day difference with the power. That said, my zrx1200 has an airbox mod and runs great. Lets face it, they do work well when tuned with the right parts or people wouldn't put them on.

LineArtist wrote: The original air box is the key to getting these good old bikes running good (even with a V&H exhaust). I don't know enough about pods but I certainly read plenty about endless hours of wrenching and trying all sorts of jet configurations. And why is that necessary, does the HP jump into the 100's, does it get better MPG - hellz no. It's just looks different (cool to some). The base fact is the air box supplies all the necessary air for a stock engine. If you spent 1000's on your engine then maybe a top end pod setup will be a compliment. However at that point you may as well go for the turbo and nitros setup, beef up the suspension, brakes, wheels and clip the handlebars right onto the fork, head between your knees.

I better stop, think my point is made.

saxjonz wrote: It could be the crank is slipping on the stator, like a sheered pin? Plummen?

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Im not sure if its just a taper fit,or if the j series went back to a woodruff key.

Heres a picture of an 81 j crank,looks like a tapered fit with bolt in the end to me.