For Peter.....ELR Head

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07 Jun 2014 19:22 #635720 by peter1958
Replied by peter1958 on topic For Peter.....ELR Head
I have to work in the morning but might get a little done later in the day
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09 Jun 2014 14:40 - 09 Jun 2014 14:44 #635942 by peter1958
Replied by peter1958 on topic For Peter.....ELR Head
Well the jugs i have where bored but they had no chamfer so I spent the day very patiently trying but finally had to give up. I put a chamfer on the jugs and needed to wipe them out and this fit very nicely . I Know how to clean them correctly but this just got the worst of it.
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Last edit: 09 Jun 2014 14:44 by peter1958.

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09 Jun 2014 14:49 #635945 by peter1958
Replied by peter1958 on topic For Peter.....ELR Head
Assemble your gaskets DRY.

Ask whoever is boring your block to put a generous chamfer on the base of the sleeves. It will make installing the block over the pistons easier.

Clean your bores with HOT, Soapy water and a big round brush. Rinse thoroughly, blow dry and then begin wiping them down with the same oil you're running for break in. Rub them with clean white clothes until the cloth stops discoloring. If you use paper towels, get Bounty. A strong dose of Dawn Dish Detergent will do the trick.

When you assemble your block onto the pistons, just a little oil on the base of the sleeve will do the trick. Don't over do it. A little on the piston skirts and rings as well [if your piston manufacturer says otherwise, follow their instructions]

After the block is on, turn the crank over to bring each pair of cylinders, to TDC and wipe out any excess oil in the cylinders with a paper towel.

Clean the cases, block and head deck surface thoroughly to remove any oil traces before you assemble with gaskets.

Use a Kawasaki OEM Base Gasket.

Apply a little engine assembly grease to the head washers and also some to the threads inside the nuts. Apply it also to the cam cap bolts. You can get it at NAPA in a tube. It's the white grease. I use it all the time...good stuff for fastener lubrication.

After you fire up the engine for the first time and run it a while, let it cool completely, then go over your cylinderhead torque sequence again. No need to loosen the nuts again, just set the wrench and check them. Tighten to factory specs if you're using stock studs or to APE's specs if you go with HD studs.

IF you lube the threads when you assemble, there's no need to loosen each nut to retorque the head.
The following user(s) said Thank You: bluej58, Tomolu5

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