Rubber oil debris... a cause for alarm?

Hope this helps

I looked in the service manual and found some good pics and diagrams that shows how all this works. Is this something to worry about on even a low mileage motor? Is this is due to the age of the rubber, not so much the mileage of on the engine?

If so will a regular oil change show rubber debris to indicate a problem? Maybe cutting the filter open to look for rubber bits?

It's not as likely that these parts would fail on a lower mileage motor- surely wear and tear (and any past improper cam chain adjustment) have a lot to do with it. That being said, age does harden the rubber, setting it up for failure, especially if the bike has sat a lot without being run. My bike has 40,000 on it, and the parts list from the engine rebuild 15 years ago does not have any evidence of these items being replaced. So who knows, they could be original. Just keep an eye on the oil you drain out, I put mine through fine mesh when I dump it out to check for floaters.

All of these cam chain components are so damn expensive it makes me think long and hard about what to do. I am (obviously) replacing the failed tensioner, (going to use a Liska part). I have new shafts and insulators on order. I'd ideally like to replace the three idlers, (the two #5's and the #4 in illustration) but this adds another $250 to my bill! They really don't look bad at all and don't seem to have bearing play, but I know it would be a good ideal to take care of all of them in one shot. Life is hard...

Did you order the LIZ1T @ $85.61 on this page? That's the tensioner that gets rid of the rubber part that failed on yours correct?

www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByCategory.asp...arts&category=010434

Insulators and shafts are parts 7,8 and 11,12 in the drawing?

As for replacing the other parts....ya....that's a tough one because of the cost huh. I could argue both ways. Gotta think about how much work it is to get to them too. If you put it back together and one fails in a year or less it's gonna suck. Then again, they might last for years more? I dunno.

I can see how it could get out of hand pretty quick. The price of the gaskets you already need to replace, might as well have the cylinder block blasted and purtied up while its off, go ahead and have the valves done while the heads off.....might as well get into the tranny and have second back cut.....and on it goes.... :ohmy:

Yep, that is the tensioner that replaces it. Note that it does not come with the idler that goes on the opposite end of this tensioner, I decided to also order that one, along with the front idler (they are both the same, #5). And yes, #7 and #8. I didn't pull the cylinders off. I can see down the chain tunnel, and have a clear view of the middle idler and the guide in the front. They look new, so I am not going to replace them. Hopefully I don't end up regretting that decision, but that is just too much more to do right now. The big bore kit has maybe 10,000 miles on it, and there is still nice crosshatching. Plus all the "other stuff" has already been done. Crank welded, trans backcut, cases painted... The head was rebuilt, but I am still going to have it checked over and put new seals in it at the very least.

I'm no expert but I'd think about #13 too ..... it was less than 25 bucks for my 650 and with the shape your other was in ....who knows ??

I ended up ordering that too. It looks pretty much perfect, but I am replacing that now that I have taken the cylinder block off. The guide too.

My conclusion: Rubber debris in oil = cause for alarm. It means, "your wallet is about to get thin, son".