Cam Chain Tensioner

oops forgot to mention OnkelB's input also

martin_csr wrote: Is the warning in the 550 manual clearly indicated as a CAUTION?

The "warning" in the 81 650 manual is rather mundane & it is included in a NOTE about removing the tensioner - it would be easy to miss & there is no mention of it in the valve clearance check section... unless I've overlooked it. This is one thing that seems somewhat lacking in the factory service manual.

The Clymer manual has it labeled as a "Caution" in italics, indented and bordered by extra space.

But as you said, the factory manual just mentions, as one of the steps, that the cap and cross wedge must be removed before installing the cover.

The Clymer is better in this regard, for beginners, since it really tries to help you avoid the common pitfalls.

However, both manuals clearly state to NOT grind the shims, lest anyone get any funny ideas.

grumpy56 wrote: As mentioned by martin_csr, I also have not found an "express warning" to do during valve cover removal. However, the section on Chain Tensioner Removal does state to remove the tensioner assembly before starting any disassembly operation that slackens the camshaft chain. So, as indicated by loudhvx, can I remove the 17mm nut and the contents, install the valve cover, and then re-install the wedge and spring without completely removing the auto tensioner unit (two mounting bolts)? Do appreciate the information.

Sorry, I read the caustion in a Clymer manual, but assumed it would be in the factory as well (the clymer has many of the same warnings as the factory manual).

If the 1000 motor is set up the same as the 550, then all you need to do is remove the 17mm hex-cap, spring and wedge. On the 550, you can leave the tensioner body and internal plunger etc. in the block.

But there are some minor differences in the various KZ tensioners, so you may want to wait for KZ1000-specific confirmation.

Also, after the cover is on, when installing the wedge, spring, and cap, there are some notes about how far to expect the wedge to go, which will indicate whether the tensioner plunger has take the extra slack up or not, and what to do if it has not, ie rotate the crank slightly etc.

From the OEM manual

I think I've seen the warning to remove the entire tensioner, but I can't see why. Once the wedge and spring is out, the tensioner can extend and retract as necessary.

loudhvx wrote: I think I've seen the warning to remove the entire tensioner, but I can't see why. Once the wedge and spring is out, the tensioner can extend and retract as necessary.

Yes, that is correct.

From the manual pic z1wiz posted:

#1 says to remove the tensioner before doing any disassembly that slackens the chain.
So, a guy wants to check the valve clearances, so he removes the tensioner, then the valve cover. But....

#3 says do not turn the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed.
So, a guy reinstalls the tensioner after removing the valve cover?!?!

Sorry, but I am confused. My bike is the 81 650, but I'm pretty sure it's essentially the same, as it has a HyVo cam chain w slipper guides.The wording in the 650 manual is very similar but laid out differently.

Do appreciate all the information from everyone. From what I've learned here as well as talking to a few other folks, I am going to remove the 17mm bolt from the chain tensioner before I re-install the valve cover. I have checked the clearances and changed a few shims and of course had to move the crankshaft (and the cam chain slack was taken up by the tensioner which I have not yet removed). Once the wedge is removed, I assume the chain will slacken, and then after re-installation, with the cover on, it will tighten to the appropriate tension. I do not intend to entirely remove the tensioner. The manual is very confusing and I am glad for the info received here.