How to minimize air flow with air pods?

Okay guys,
I have air pods on my bike now, 1983 KZ750n2 spectre. Im trying to tune my carb after rebuilding it. I know when using air pods you need to get your carbs jetted, but damn I know SOMEONE has found a way around this. I read about cutting down some soda cans and putting them inside the pods to restrict airflow. This sounds good, but it takes some playing to get the air flow just right. Well sense my carbs are not adjusted right, I cant tell if its too much air coming in, or I need to adjusted my air/fuel screws. I would just order a filter for the factory airbox. But im leaving town in a couple days and I want to get this bike running before I leave so I can sleep and enjoy my vacation!This will not be permanent, just temporary.

I don't think it is only the restriction as it is also the path of the air flow, turbulence, etc.. Don't get me wrong mine has pods on it also, but those original engineers who designed these hotrods knew what they were doing. Good luck with your quest though and sorry I wasn't much help.

Your best solution is the factory air box with filter.
With pods your best solution is to experiment with larger jets sizes or look for a jet kit from Dynojet.
If you are trying to reduce the airflow through the pods then I have read about people wrapping duct tape a portion of the pod surface but I am thinking this or any "soda can" method would be a bit of a crap shoot. Pretty crude and unlikely to get your bike running as good as it should.
Good luck

I still haven't figured out the pod thing. Have done it on 4 bikes over the past few years, On a CB750, I was told beforehand what jets were needed, no problems, bike ran great. Next 2 bikes, could never get them to run well, ended up going back to stock airbox, bikes ran great. Latest bike, did not re-jet at all, bike runs great, may bump up jets just to confirm suspicion that there may be some power left on the table. Overall, best advice is to stay with stock airbox (I hear it over and over, from people I trust to know). They knew what they were doing when designing the bike.

That being said, I have seen people get their bike to run right by covering pods with duct tape, but that's a pretty half-baked way to go.

It's trial and error, you just have to get in there and do the work.

Thank you!, im not trying to drive it across the country or even into town. I just want to hear the bike idle and rev up. To see if I have any other problems that I will need to address. Im going to test my carb holders tonight for leaks. Im about to order a air filter offline, I cant find one at the parts store, But after looking at my air box, im a little confused about how it sits in there and mounts, I know it goes inside of it. But what im calling the cap that screws on the opening of the box that holds the air filter is not there, will the new air filter I order come with it? or is that a stock part? Im not having any luck trying to find topics that already cover the questions I have asked. If there is a topic on here that covers how to install the air filter, and how to re install the air box, please share the link lol. My bike did not have the air box installed when I got it.

This is my airbox, this is all I have. minus the rubber boots that attatch to each carb

sbc1320 wrote: I don't think it is only the restriction as it is also the path of the air flow, turbulence, etc.. Don't get me wrong mine has pods on it also, but those original engineers who designed these hotrods knew what they were doing.

They also fired the arrow then drew the target to match where it landed...... which is to say the length and taper of the carb needles was cut so that it matched the airflow characteristics and gave proper fuel mix across the full RPM range.

"Thank you!, im not trying to drive it across the country or even into town. I just want to hear the bike idle and rev up. To see if I have any other problems that I will need to address. Im going to test my carb holders tonight for leaks."

You might get it started with the pods or with duct tape around a portion of the pods.

The airbox in your picture is missing the airbox cap as you say. This is part # 11012 in the diagram (kawasaki.com owner info, parts diagrams etc etc) . The air filter does not come with the cap. If you had the cap you would just remove it, drop in the filter and replace it. According to kawasak.com the cap is no longer available


Also according to kawasaki.com the same cap was used on the following models so you may be able to pick one up on ebay or from a recycler

Let me get this straight e. You just want to run the bike at idle and likely up and down the rev range. You just want to listen to the bike run to determine if there are any other issues or problems, right? I say don't sweat it so much and simply run the bike with the pods even if you have stock jets and needles in the carbs. The worse thing that will happen regarding air/fuel mixture is you will likely run lean due to more air flow. You are not going to run the bike for extended periods, right? Then I would not worry about the lean mixture. Be sure to get the air/fuel mix right for long term use. Otherwise, you may damage exhaust valves if you run with stock jetting with more open air flow(Pods). Once you get back into town you can begin to fine tune your carbs. Follow the general guidelines for what size jets and where you clip your needles. I am sure there is a technical post relating to Carb set up with pods on here somewhere. In the meantime, relax and start your engine!

Correct, im not trying to make the bike road worthy over night, I just wanted to see were i was with the bike, But after writing this post, i began to break the bike down, to start checking all the rubber bushing, vacuum lines, etc. When doing this i realized how half a## my main vacuum line coming from the crank case was. Its made up off 3 different size hoses, and were the hoses come together at is lose and has no type of hose clamps to seal it. The hole thing just pulled apart. Sooo i think this is were i need to start, Do i need to take that emission vacuum completely off my bike if im not using it on my carbs, or just plug the small hose that has the T fitting on it? Also which shop Manuel would u recommend. Is ebay the cheapest place to buy one?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe very best manual is the genuine Kawasaki Service Manual, and eBay is the best place to find one. Here's one on eBay. Notice the photo of the back cover as it shows your specific year/model. This one is at a pretty good price considering it has free shipping. Ed

e.dishong2 wrote: main vacuum line coming from the crank case

I think you're probably looking at the case vent.
You should definitely buy a manual...