motor oil

baldy110 wrote: I used to run auto oil in my bike years ago but not anymore. The oil companies have changed their formulas over the last 10 years. When I was using auto oil I use to be able to get 3000 miles between oil changes but now auto oil is so different it breaks down in about 500 miles. The tranny starts to shift harder and the engine makes weird noises when I use auto oil. I have been using the Rotella 15-40 wt made for diesel engines. It has all the additives without the friction modifiers that screw up the wet clutch.

I still use rotella 15-40 but even they have cut back the zinc content............

Ken, Any modern motor oil in the proper weight for your bike will work well in just the motor....BUT here's the catch. Your bike has a wet clutch. Todays gas saving oils have additives which help the car motor run with less friction, These same additives can let your clutch slip. I would think using oil made for motorcycles with a wet clutch would be cheaper in the long run with no clutch repair. I don't think one brand is better than another as long as the oil gets changed once in a while.

650ed wrote: For anyone who is really interested in seeing a comparison of the various properties of different brands of motorcycle oil the following link shows a very comprehensive set of tests and scores.

www.dualies.com/downloads/files/Oil%20Te...ults%20-%20g2156.pdf

The document reviews the physical properties and performance of a number of generally available motorcycle oils. Those areas of review are:

1. An oil’s ability to meet the required viscosity grade of an application.
2. An oil’s ability to maintain a constant viscosity when exposed to changes in temperature.
3. An oil’s ability to retain its viscosity during use.
4. An oil’s ability to resist shearing forces and maintain its viscosity at elevated temperatures.
5. An oil’s zinc content.
6. An oil’s ability to minimize general wear.
7. An oil’s ability to minimize gear wear.
8. An oil’s ability to minimize deterioration when exposed to elevated temperatures.
9. An oil’s ability to resist volatilization when exposed to elevated temperatures.
10. An oil’s ability to maintain engine cleanliness and control acid corrosion.
11. An oil’s ability to resist foaming.
12. An oil’s ability to control rust corrosion

Those are the 12 things I always ask myself when I'm at the store looking :laugh: ....Just kidding Ed... That's all good info

:laugh: I understand! I'm not even that thorough when I'm buying booze. :laugh: :laugh:

I use Rotella 15-40. It has Zinc and other additives and the stuff works!
I built my Yamaha TT500 engine and ran the ever loving piss out of it. I just took it apart for a couple upgrades and there was no wear anywhere in sight. Cam looked new, cylinder looks the same as the day I put it together, and the piston did not have a mark on it.

I use it in everything I own at this point. KZ, TT, Diesel truck, and a 300,000 mile Porsche that does not burn a drop of oil.

Rotela t6 will be going in all my bikes from the 80 kz1k to my 07 gsxr 750., when ever the snow stops flying here in MN,

Nice bike...! Mine is very similar.
I just ordered a case of Brad Penn 20w50wt. The 10w40 worked well last year, but wanted to try the heavier weight for a change this summer.

www.penngrade1.com/Products/Motor-Oils/SAE-20W50.aspx

mobile 1 racing 4t 10w-40 would be suitable

donthaveakawman wrote: mobile 1 racing 4t 10w-40 would be suitable

That's what I've been using since 2006. It works very well. Ed

Thanks, by the way that is a pimp ass trike!!!!!