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1978 kz400 wont start! HELP PLEASE!!!!!!
- 2wheeldeal
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- Motor Head
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So do you have the service manual for the bike? You need the correct service manual to get you through the service and repair. Here on KZR we have "File Base" at the upper right hand corner of the page. You will find lots of good info there.
Did you also clean the Tank, or you will re-contaminate your clean carbs.
Now do you have the Air Box/ Filter hooked up? The carb needs this to work correctly or it will be lean. When you cleaned the carb, did you take out the jets, the pilot screw and blow it out with compressed air and carb cleaner? Did you set not just the dry float height, but also the Wet Fuel Level? This is done with a piece of clear tubing hooked to the drain. Search here for Clear Tube Test, and you will find the posts. Then when setting the Pilot Screw, how many turns out from lightly seated are you starting at? Make sure you have all the vacuum fittings either hooked up correctly or capped off so there is no leaks there. Make sure the bowl vents are open though.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- KZCool
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1976 KZ750 hardtail
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- wireman
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As far as the neutral light ,have you checkrd the bulbs?
posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
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- 2wheeldeal
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Thank you all so much for helping!!!
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- 650ed
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2wheeldeal wrote: ...i do nit have air filters on need new ones because i did not like the box....
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- 2wheeldeal
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- Steve1986
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1982 kz1000J
Miles-6700
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- 650ed
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2wheeldeal wrote: why the sad face? help me out here?
You stated:
You have a 1978 K400. (So unless someone has replaced the carbs, it has CV (constant velocity) carbs.)
You have not only removed the airbox (not good with CV carbs), you have totally removed all air filtration (even worse, especially with CV carbs).
I believe whatever problems you are having trying to get the engine running well are compounded by what you have done regarding the air filter. Trying to diagnose and properly tune an engine that was already running poorly before removing the airbox/filters is going to keep you busy for a very long time and will very likely result in a lot of guesswork, trial, and error (not to mention frustration and wasted $$) now that you have removed the air filtration.
A much better approach would have been to get the engine running well before making modifications. Doing that would have allowed you to easily tune the bike properly to stock specs in order to set a performance baseline. Once that was done, you could measure or observe the effect of any mods to see if the mods made the engine run better, the same, or worse and then adjust as needed. By making mods to an engine that already runs poorly you cannot tell what effect the mods have on performance. Maybe they are contributing to the poor running (most likely) or maybe the poor running is caused by something totally unrelated.
You may want to do a search on this forum using the keywords "pods" and "CV". Also, if possible, you may want to reverse the changes you made and tuning the bike with stock components, get it running well, and then decide on and make mods if you want.
Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Motor Head
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650ed wrote:
2wheeldeal wrote: why the sad face? help me out here?
You stated:
You have a 1978 K400. (So unless someone has replaced the carbs, it has CV (constant velocity) carbs.)
You have not only removed the airbox (not good with CV carbs), you have totally removed all air filtration (even worse, especially with CV carbs).
I believe whatever problems you are having trying to get the engine running well are compounded by what you have done regarding the air filter. Trying to diagnose and properly tune an engine that was already running poorly before removing the airbox/filters is going to keep you busy for a very long time and will very likely result in a lot of guesswork, trial, and error (not to mention frustration and wasted $$) now that you have removed the air filtration.
A much better approach would have been to get the engine running well before making modifications. Doing that would have allowed you to easily tune the bike properly to stock specs in order to set a performance baseline. Once that was done, you could measure or observe the effect of any mods to see if the mods made the engine run better, the same, or worse and then adjust as needed. By making mods to an engine that already runs poorly you cannot tell what effect the mods have on performance. Maybe they are contributing to the poor running (most likely) or maybe the poor running is caused by something totally unrelated.
You may want to do a search on this forum using the keywords "pods" and "CV". Also, if possible, you may want to reverse the changes you made and tuning the bike with stock components, get it running well, and then decide on and make mods if you want.
Ed
This really good advice, 650ed. It would be best to make sure the bike is running pretty good Before starting Mods. For street riding the Stock Airbox is by Far the best choice. IMO anyway. The Bike will run fine with the stock components or there is a problem that needs repaired.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- drones76
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1975 KZ400d (avatar)
1974 Norton Commando Roadster 850
1980 Gold Wing Interstate
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- 2wheeldeal
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