Head Removal

I'm doing a top end rebuild on my machine, '82 KZ750 N1. I busted the head loose with the pry points and I can lift the head up off the pistons. However, there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to pull the head up over the bolts and slide it out of the frame. Am I missing something?

Figured it out. I was trying to remove the head and jugs as a whole unit. I just popped the head free. Sorry for the wasted posts.

Thanks!

Once you break the seal on the bottem gasket by prying on the cylinder you might as well go ahead and pull the cylinder and replace the base gasket or chances are youll have a leak.
Why are you removing the head?

wireman wrote: Once you break the seal on the bottem gasket by prying on the cylinder you might as well go ahead and pull the cylinder and replace the base gasket or chances are youll have a leak.

Uless you seal it with 3-bond or yamabond or something similar.

I have slighltly low compression in one cylinder. I put some compressed air in the cylinder in question and dont hear air leaking past the intake or exhaust valve. I put a couple mL of oil in the cylinder and the pressure went up about 30 psi. I'm putting new rings on and honing. I measured all the cylinders/pistons and everything is in spec. Also just wanted a look inside.

I already bought all new gaskets. That was part of the plan.

While you have the head off, I would do at least a solvent check of the valves. Pour some light solvent/ gas/ brake clean/ or even diesel into each port. Looking at the valves in the combustion chamber to see if they leak. Then you can determine the next course of action there. But at minimum I would replace the valve stem oil seals and lap the valves back into the seats. Better to get the head rebuilt. Also the Teflon Stem Seals would be best, as they will give many years/ miles of good service. You'll need to take a measurement of the valve clearances, make a Map of it, and after the head is done re-shim the clearance. Keep all the shims and buckets in order to go back where they were to start out.

Motor Head wrote: While you have the head off, I would do at least a solvent check of the valves. Pour some light solvent/ gas/ brake clean/ or even diesel into each port. Looking at the valves in the combustion chamber to see if they leak. Then you can determine the next course of action there. But at minimum I would replace the valve stem oil seals and lap the valves back into the seats. Better to get the head rebuilt. Also the Teflon Stem Seals would be best, as they will give many years/ miles of good service. You'll need to take a measurement of the valve clearances, make a Map of it, and after the head is done re-shim the clearance. Keep all the shims and buckets in order to go back where they were to start out.

When you fill the ports with solvent blow air around edge of valves where they meet seats and look for bubbles in solvent.

Or flip the head upside down and put solvent in the chambers and blow into the ports. I find it easier that way at least

Blowing the compressed directly around valve/seat is a more definite test in my experience anyway

Thanks guys. That's all good advice. I'm going to test the valves for leaks tomorrow. I want to make sure I don't have to take it apart again.

Can you explain the 3bond? I removed head yesterday to replace gasket....looks as if oil seeped from base gasket overnight but i really didnt want to pull the cylinder off the pistons......

Forget the 3bond once seal on gasket is gone its time to replace the gasket.
Put the copper coat on both sides of new gasket before installing.