Yet another cam chain tensioner history!

donthaveakawman wrote: I don't care what kzjoe says about you patton that is a good idea, I thought about ordering one of those before and I never did.

Maybe you have a leaking plug wire which is arcing causing a cylinder to cut in and out.

I have considered the manual cam chain tensioners... but (I might be wrong) I want to keep the automatic thing. Somehow I tend to think if the engineers of Kawasaki put it, it might be for something.

Another possibility is, since I am with some spare time, make my own tensioner.

I think it could take a couple of machining hours in the garage. No CNC here, lathe is manual.

undiablo wrote: I have considered the manual cam chain tensioners... but (I might be wrong) I want to keep the automatic thing. Somehow I tend to think if the engineers of Kawasaki put it, it might be for something....

Same here. And well-satisfied with the stock tensioner when it's performing as designed.
The after-market version may be inadvertently over-tightened, with undesirable results.

Imo, a good carb sync is more likely to significantly reduce cam-chain noise, regardless of the type tensioner that's fitted.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

undiablo wrote: I have considered the manual cam chain tensioners... but (I might be wrong) I want to keep the automatic thing. Somehow I tend to think if the engineers of Kawasaki put it, it might be for something....

Same here. And well-satisfied with the stock tensioner when it's performing as designed.
The after-market version may be inadvertently over-tightened, with undesirable results.

Imo, a good carb sync is more likely to significantly reduce cam-chain noise, regardless of the type tensioner that's fitted.

Good Fortune!

Where have I heard all of this before? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Isn't there a locknut on the factory tensioner?
How hard is it to install the new one, does the chain rail guide fall in the crankcase if i do something wrong?
my guess is that I would turn the engine to where the chain snugs it up against that side of the motor.
I ordered the ape thing from z1 but can't find a instructions file online.

APE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Click here > www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

Good Fortune!

It seems like someone here on KZR said that the automatic type can be converted to a manual tensioner if you have access to a machine shop?

As for the automatic tensioners, I read somewhere that on the big Kaws, a problem can arise when the throttle is closed at high speed. Apparently, the tensioner can back itself out or something, causing the timing to get messed up, resulting in bent valves. It's something I vaguely remember. There's probably a more precise explanation somewhere.

APE Jay wrote: Just put a KT1000 Manual Camchain Tensioner

Rob at Z1 put me one in the mail should be here in the morning.
$50 buck's worth of insurance it's a no brainer.

Indeed, I applied a lot of pressure to the tensioner push rod and it went back, no matter the cross wedge stoper. Backing the push rod seems to defeat the cross wedge spring resistance. However this test was made in a bench vice. :evil:

I highly doubt the cam chain can put that much pressure to the push rod.

KZJOE900 wrote:

donthaveakawman wrote: I don't care what kzjoe says about you patton that is a good idea, I thought about ordering one of those before and I never did.

Maybe you have a leaking plug wire which is arcing causing a cylinder to cut in and out.

I actually have seen them hit the gas tank, it has been over a year since I replaced them. I bought 6 feet of new wire that I have yet to put on. I should find spacers for them.
maybe I will do that when my new tensioner gets here. :whistle:
also painted the exhaust with barbeque paint after I took some naval jelly to it. I ran it for a couple minutes now it needs to dry more.

A 6x35mm bolt and nut will make the OEM tensione work like a charm...cost under a buck

why not just take the screw out and pump some oil in there.