GPz 1100 cam cap bolt torque specs - again.....

Torque them to whatever spec you fell good about. If you start with cap 1, then do 2 as soon as you can get the bolts started. Alternate back and forth to pull the cam down evenly.

Then 4 and 3 the same way. You'll put less stress on the threads. Just make sure when you do 4 that 3 already just started down over the thrust faces on the intake cam. Oil the threads on all the bolts.

Dowel pin taper goes up. Dowel pins should be in the head, not in the cap. Put some oil on them and their mating hole in the cap. Dowels should slip easily into the cap holes. That should be checked before any assembly has begun.

Is there some reason Kawasaki didn't just use studs for fastening the cam caps so the threads in the cylinder head wouldn't be at risk of stripping? They did this for the exhaust pipe holders. Is this something that could be done by folks who strip a cam cap thread? Ed

Ive thought of that also,but it would be really tough to install/remove cams with studs in there

wireman wrote: Ive thought of that also,but it would be really tough to install/remove cams with studs in there

and easy to drag the polished bearing faces on the threads of the studs.

Actually, if they made the bolts about 5mm longer, it would help a bunch. They put too much initial force one to few threads for them to hold up against the resistance of a valve spring.

When you're starting down the high side caps, don't be afraid to push the cam down with your palm. You might be surprised how much load you can take off the threads doing that.

Using two Bessey Tradesman style woodworking clamps (one on each cap to press the caps/cams down fully), allows the bolt(s) to then follow with no stress on the threads, until all are fully inserted...then torque, and remove the clamps afterward.

I won't pull the caps down with bolts anymore. Been there.

Regarding weak threads: Could poor quality castings contribute to thread weakness?
Back then...when head production was cranking along, a few lesser-ones may have zipped past quality control.

gutentight, that is what i learned while repairing Volkswagen cars if I haven't broke it and it is not going to fall off the correct number is of foot pounds is gutentight. i also learned righty tighty and lefty loosey. also if you do break it and it is easy to get to then you can take a small hammer and a small sharp punch to turn it carefully, also you may heat the metal around it with a torch if you think that will help.
yes, gutentight and threadlocker.

my local library reference database says 12 ft/lbs for the kz1000/1100 81-2002

Kawasaki Cam Cap Bolt Torque

Cam Cap Bolts - 8ft/lbs and no more. Oil the threads before you install them. Make SURE the dowels pins have the tapered end pointing up toward the cam cap. Drop of oil on them and inside the cap boss hole where the dowels slide in.

Remove the 17mm cap nut, spring and split plunger to unload the tensioner. You need to do that when ever the valve cover is removed to prevent over tight cam chain on J motors.

Do not re-install the split plunger, spring & cap nut until after you have the valve cover installed.

I am definitely going to have to get myself an inch pounds torque wrench, I have broken a bolt or two with a worn ft/lbs torque wrench.

donthaveakawman wrote: I am definitely going to have to get myself an inch pounds torque wrench, I have broken a bolt or two with a worn ft/lbs torque wrench.

With 6 different bikes, I now do a lot of small dia. bolt torquing so I finally purchased a 1/4" torque wrench. It was only like $45 and works great. No more worring about stripped threads or snapped bolt heads.

Yea, get an inch pound for small bolts. The problem is most if not all torque wrenches are normally rated as accurate from 20% to full scale, so in other words if you have a ft/lb torque wrench that reads to 75ft/lb it is only accurate down to 15ft/lb, below that you are taking your chances. I'm sure there are many good torque wrenches, some decent low priced models possibly but I found a good torque wrench in the mid price point is CDI which is a devision of Snap on tools.