Looking for some gasket opinions.

I'm finally at the point of putting my bike back together. Wife and kids leaves little time for the old KZ. After month and a half to get started and a month and half to disassemble, replace broken part, clean and prep; I'm finally ready for assembly. So I have researched the best way to install the gaskets (more specifically the base and cylinder head) and have settled on using grease on both sides of the gasket during assembly. I know of at least one member here (zed1015) who does this and I respect his considerable knowledge and talent. I have also seen some very experienced people on the net who use this method. Now, I have seen people here using silicone based sealers (most people don't like them), different types of Permatex RTV sealer, Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket, silver paint, or just try with nothing on. My mind is made of for the most part, but just wanted to see if there are any downsides to using the grease.
But most importantly, I plan on using a waterproof grease (Maxima). Is it important what type of grease to use for this application? Sorry to ge over analytical regarding this, but I'm trying to avoid having to go through the drudgery of spending time cleaning the old gasket again if I find the need to take apart the engine again in the future. And it is my understanding that his will help in this regard plus excellent at avoiding leaks.

Some good info on the topic here.

Ive used the spray on copper coat for years on paper gaskets without leaks on everything from jd backhoes to bikes,The mechanic who used to wrench on my tractors hooked me on the stuff

wireman wrote: Ive used the spray on copper coat for years on paper gaskets without leaks on everything from jd backhoes to bikes,The mechanic who used to wrench on my tractors hooked me on the stuff

Hi Wireman, I have seen you mention it before and so have purchased awhile back in case I decide to use it. It sounds like you have had good success with it at avoiding leaks. But I am also interested in knowing how hard is it to take the old gasket off for a gasket that was installed with this product. In other words, not only am I interested in a good seal, but also want to use a product where the gasket comes off clean in any future disassembly. How does this copper spray fair in this regard?

OnkelB wrote: Some good info on the topic here.

Hi OnkelB,

Yes, that is one of the sources that I had seen on the topic. He mentions wheel bearing grease. So I suppose the Maxima waterproof grease is considered wheel bearing grease (I had purchased it for my head steam replacement job). And I like very much the comments he makes about future disassembly.

I would use yamabond on the cylinder base gasket since you should not be removing that for a very long time. The head gasket should not need any sealer. I would not grease gaskets.

bountyhunter wrote: I would use yamabond on the cylinder base gasket since you should not be removing that for a very long time. The head gasket should not need any sealer. I would not grease gaskets.

Thanks Bountyhunter, and yes. If I have to go with a gasket sealer I think I would go with the yamabond. But I think I will have to go in there again in a year or two to change rings and and redo the head. Just don't want to go through the expense and time right now. Bike ran well before I had it it apart to change the broken cam guide. After having spend hours cleaning the base, head and oil pan gasket residue (six surfaces total), I want to avoid that in the future. I'm sure people will rightly suggest, "Do the needed work now". But alias, its not in the cards.

I let the copper coat get tacky before installing the gaskets

bountyhunter wrote: The head gasket should not need any sealer.

I agree, no sealer on the head gasket.

As for grease on paper gaskets I am no authority on the subject, but there seems to be two schools of thought, for and against - I have used both methods, grease and dry, with pretty much the same results.

When I rebuilt my 650 engine I installed all gaskets dry, no leaks so far (3 years).

I used grease (a very thin coat) on a couple of gaskets on my 1100 including valve cover gasket after a valve adjustment job, no leaks so far.


The main reasons I tried the grease method are these two statements from Dan's site:

1: "Gaskets are made to expand just a little when oil hits them."

2: "It (applying grease) starts the swelling process that the oil will finish."

I didn't know about #1, but if it's true then #2 makes sense - haven't opened the 650 since assembly, but I recently pulled the head and cylinder block on the 1100 and the valve cover gasket came off intact, head and base gasket is another story....

KZJOE900 wrote: Thanks Bountyhunter, and yes. If I have to go with a gasket sealer I think I would go with the yamabond. But I think I will have to go in there again in a year or two to change rings and and redo the head. Just don't want to go through the expense and time right now. Bike ran well before I had it it apart to change the broken cam guide. After having spend hours cleaning the base, head and oil pan gasket residue (six surfaces total), I want to avoid that in the future.

Even if you don't use bonding agent, the gasket decomposes over time and sticks to the surfaces. BTW: the base gasket on mine came from the factory with something like 3 bond. Was a bugger to get off. But even dry gaskets leave residue.

OnkelB wrote:
I agree, no sealer on the head gasket.

As for grease on paper gaskets I am no authority on the subject, but there seems to be two schools of thought, for and against - I have used both methods, grease and dry, with pretty much the same results.

When I rebuilt my 650 engine I installed all gaskets dry, no leaks so far (3 years).

I used grease (a very thin coat) on a couple of gaskets on my 1100 including valve cover gasket after a valve adjustment job, no leaks so far.


The main reasons I tried the grease method are these two statements from Dan's site:

1: "Gaskets are made to expand just a little when oil hits them."

2: "It (applying grease) starts the swelling process that the oil will finish."

I'm not sure that's true. I looked up the MSDS on the material I used to make my gaskets from Interface Solutions. It quotes crush resistance and also says it is oil resistant. I don't think it is intended to "saturate" with oil. I think when it gets crushed in the flange gap, it gets so dense it repels the oil from getting by. I'm not sure what greasing does other than possibly making it easier to remove.


www.sealinfo.com/index.cfm?objectid=E646...8AD-C5975764F17117D5

I did a 100% rebuild / refurb of a 1980 A4 Mark II Kz 1000. I used Cometic gaskets with NO other sealant added to gasket surfaces. This is what I experianced and did to keep a good seal.

1. When you first install and torque bolts, screws and allens....they compress only so much due to the new gasket. When the engine heat cycles over and over.... the gasket then begins to fully seat. When this happens, the bolt, screws and allens can lose there torque and leaks can happen.

2. I would do a follow up torque after a few weeks. This is very important for the head bolts. After you do this second re-torque....check the bolts again a few weeks later as the new gaskets should have fully seated. The bolts should have kept the torque and you are fine.

3. If you still find loose bolts, this is the point you want to remove bolts one at a time and apply lock-tight, re-install and do a final torque.

4. Follow these steps and you will have a well bedded and sealed gasket and the best chance to stay oil leak free.