81 KZ1100 won't start

Hello everyone, I may need some advice here, my 81 KZ1100 won't start. Just a couple of weeks ago, it started right up, and it's been running pretty well without any major issues. Battery is good, everything turns on once I turn the key, the engine turns, starter seems to be be turning fine, compression sounds good. I have also cleaned out the spark plugs hoping it would help, but it's still a no go, I have also tried some starter fluid and even tried jump starting it down the hill and still nothing. I'm at an impasse here, and could use some suggestions.
Btw, carbs were recently cleaned out, so I don't think the problem would be there.

Thanks all!

Got Spark?

If the pick up(kawasaki calls them pulsing coils)fail, you'll not get a spark, and if the IC Igniter has died,again no spark. A forum member "Loudhvx" has made a replacement using off the shelf GM ignition modules. This only works on bikes with the mechanical ignition advancer.



Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

Check for spark using these tools, otherwise, possible damage to the ignition system can happen:
Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8

If your bike has the original ignition coils & sparkplug wires, read this:

Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

What came with the bike were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in stop and go traffic, and the coils will fail when hot.

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com . I believe "Emgo" is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1. Copper plug wires with no supression caps(the best choice, will produce greater spark, but will produce audio noise on Radio's & T.V.'s)

2. Copper plug wires with supression caps(a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can some times fail, like what came with the bike).

3. Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the "R" in the plug number, like B8RES).

4. Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs and supression caps or supression plug wires, as now there will be two (2) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar primary(small wire) electrical connection using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers will come really close, possibly causing an electrical short, blowing fuses. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with Nylon or Plastic non conductive ones, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wire fit into a port with a brass “Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(The Brits, Canadians and other countries call the sparkplug wires “High Tension Leads”).

Thanks all. I will check spark again, but I'm sure I have spark. I'll run these checks anyway to rule them out at least. either way this is really helpful. Thanks again!

darosa11 wrote: Hello everyone, I may need some advice here, my 81 KZ1100 won't start. Just a couple of weeks ago, it started right up, and it's been running pretty well without any major issues. Battery is good, everything turns on once I turn the key, the engine turns, starter seems to be be turning fine, compression sounds good. I have also cleaned out the spark plugs hoping it would help, but it's still a no go, I have also tried some starter fluid and even tried jump starting it down the hill and still nothing. I'm at an impasse here, and could use some suggestions.
Btw, carbs were recently cleaned out, so I don't think the problem would be there.

Thanks all!

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Hello, darosa11, and WELCOME to KZrider!

Perhaps no plug is sparking.

Would determine voltage being received at each ignition coil via the red wire to each coil.
Would also assure the black/yellow wire is providing a good ground from the igniter.

There's a wiring diagram in KZr FILEBASE.



Or click this link > www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/270-z1100a1

Handsome bike!

Good Fortune!

I'm pretty sure I do, but will check again tomorrow to confirm.

And of course the kill switch is in RUN position. :lol:

Good Fortune!

Funny! I would kick my own a%$ if that ended up being the issue.

On these older bikes, the factory solder connections on the handlebar switches have been known to "Crumble" and fail, so read this too:

Read this for a primer on hand soldering: technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections on the older bikes.

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder of 60/40 type. SN60 or SN63 is preferred.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone does a good job of removing excess solder flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge, keeping a thin layer on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick or screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).

J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol or Acetone, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

K. When repairing the bad or "Cold Solder Joints" (as the Electronics industry calls them), it takes really no special skills, just patience, and a place to work(along with the mentioned tools. You've got to be sober, and not stoned, as the soldering tool can be at 700 F, possibly giving the impaired bike owner severe burns.

L. If you have fine muscle control problems, have a friend do the soldering for you. Moving a wire before the electrical joint has properly set up, can create "Cold Joints" too. If possible, practice on the bench top with some scrap wires before attempting repairs on the bike.

M. This information comes from years of missile test cable and equipment assembly, when I worked at General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego California, on the BGM-109 Tomahawk and later on the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile. This was from 1983-1993. The company had a week long soldering school, where you learned to solder meeting “Mil-Spec” standards.

Sometimes I have to jiggle the neutral starter connection at the clutch lever of my KZ1000 to get it to start.

Bit temperamental at times.