KZ1000 valve chatter

Kitten Tooth wrote: ...How do i know what shims to get based on the clearances i currently have? Also, is the manual gonna show me where to rotate the cams to do the clearance check?....

Must know existing clearance and existing shim size in order to determine the needed shim size.

For this reason, it's a good idea to keep a record of the existing shim sizes, for future reference.

When measuring the clearance, just point the cam lobe away from the bucket. And then insert the thickness (feeler) gauge.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

Kitten Tooth wrote: ...How do i know what shims to get based on the clearances i currently have? Also, is the manual gonna show me where to rotate the cams to do the clearance check?....

Must know existing clearance and existing shim size in order to determine the needed shim size.

For this reason, it's a good idea to keep a record of the existing shim sizes, for future reference.

When measuring the clearance, just point the cam lobe away from the bucket. And then insert the thickness (feeler) gauge.

Good Fortune!

Is this the same thing you would do for an 8 valve suzuki engine? I have an 8 valve twin and thats how i adjusted the valves was i just pointed the lobes away and adjusted them. Im sorry i gotta bring this up in a thread about my KZ1000 but i could never get a straight answer on the GSR forum. it had the lock nut and adjusting screw type though. They weren't shimmed. Ill get to it as far as my KZ goes though.

Kidkawie wrote: adjust the timing chain

I think my bike has the automatic cam chain tensioner though. It does make sense because i have seen other bikes with poor cam chain adjustments and they rattle like crazy and slap around in the motor at idle. I think ill adjust my valves, clean everything up in there and then fool around with the tensioner. Put some slack in the chain and then release the adjuster and see if it tightens back up again.

The idea behind setting valve clearance is to assure that the base circle of the cam doesn't interfere with full closure of the valve.

The gap specified when cold is to compensate for the gap being reduced at normal engine operating temperature.

Say the cold measured gap is 0.10 mm with whatever shim size.
At normal operating temperature, the gap will have diminished to something under 0.10 mm, but not diminished so far as to allow the base circle of the cam to contact the shim and thereby interfere with full closure of the valve.

Good Fortune!

[quote="Kitten Tooth" post=531023Is this the same thing you would do for an 8 valve suzuki engine? I have an 8 valve twin and thats how i adjusted the valves was i just pointed the lobes away and adjusted them. Im sorry i gotta bring this up in a thread about my KZ1000 but i could never get a straight answer on the GSR forum. it had the lock nut and adjusting screw type though. They weren't shimmed. Ill get to it as far as my KZ goes though.[/quote]

I am a little confused. You say 8-valve Suzuki twin, so I presume you mean a two-cylinder with 4 valves per cylinder? What engine? Some Suzukis and Kawasakis of later years have valve actuating arms that can be pushed aside - they're held in place by springs in normal operation - and give you access to the shim retainers. The Vulcan 800 and W650 have such systems, as do the early GSX600F and several GSX-R engines. The Kawasaki you own is different, where you either have to remove the cams or depress the shim bucket on their edge and then lift the shim out with a magnet or foreceps.

You then talk about the GSR, which is a four, and I wonder what it has to do with things here :huh:

Patton wrote: The idea behind setting valve clearance is to assure that the base circle of the cam doesn't interfere with full closure of the valve.

The gap specified when cold is to compensate for the gap being reduced at normal engine operating temperature.

Say the cold measured gap is 0.10 mm with whatever shim size.
At normal operating temperature, the gap will have diminished to something under 0.10 mm, but not diminished so far as to allow the base circle of the cam to contact the shim and thereby interfere with full closure of the valve.

Good Fortune!

I'm pretty certain that the gap increases as my KZ650 gets warm because I had one valve with zero clearance and 2 with less than zero and it would not run properly or pull at all when cold, but run fine when warm. With clearances adjusted, the engine runs nicely from cold.

you have a PM .

Tim... Insure you verify and correct if needed cam tooth counts and sprocket/lobe alignments in case it jumped a tooth... Don't want to be bending a valve...

And damn young man, stop reving (7k) the piss out of her..... :laugh:

OMR

I thought redline was abuse cmon, why give those 8000 RPMS before redline if you cant even use them? i dont always run it that hard. Sometimes ill just dump her down a gear and pull the throttle wide open. Kinda funny when i pull up to a stop sign and my dad goes "YOU SCARED THE SHIT OUTTA ME" cus my kerkers so loud.

faffi wrote: [quote="Kitten Tooth" post=531023Is this the same thing you would do for an 8 valve suzuki engine? I have an 8 valve twin and thats how i adjusted the valves was i just pointed the lobes away and adjusted them. Im sorry i gotta bring this up in a thread about my KZ1000 but i could never get a straight answer on the GSR forum. it had the lock nut and adjusting screw type though. They weren't shimmed. Ill get to it as far as my KZ goes though.

I am a little confused. You say 8-valve Suzuki twin, so I presume you mean a two-cylinder with 4 valves per cylinder? What engine? Some Suzukis and Kawasakis of later years have valve actuating arms that can be pushed aside - they're held in place by springs in normal operation - and give you access to the shim retainers. The Vulcan 800 and W650 have such systems, as do the early GSX600F and several GSX-R engines. The Kawasaki you own is different, where you either have to remove the cams or depress the shim bucket on their edge and then lift the shim out with a magnet or foreceps.

You then talk about the GSR, which is a four, and I wonder what it has to do with things here :huh:[/quote]


when i said GSR, i was referring to another forum that focuses on Suzuki motorcycles. The suzuki motor i was talking about is out of a GS300L. Its 2 cylinders, 4 valves per cylinder. It has the lock nut and adjusting screw to set valve clearances. I dont think it has shims but im not sure. As for the actuating rods are you talking about Torsion bars instead of valve springs? I only heard of the CB450 engines having those.

I meant the "fingers" that are operated by the camshaft lobes and that push the valves open - this bloody foreigner have forgotten the proper term.

Your GS300 have adjusting screws and locknuts, no shim.

faffi wrote: I meant the "fingers" that are operated by the camshaft lobes and that push the valves open - this bloody foreigner have forgotten the proper term.

Your GS300 have adjusting screws and locknuts, no shim.

Ahh ok. Well is the adjusting process the same then? Do i just point to lobes away to adjust the valves?