82 750 Spectre issues

SpectreRob750 wrote: ...what exactly is the image circled in red that needs to be removed?...

In the process of eliminating the EPA vacuum system, but my fresh oil DOES smell like fuel. What does this mean?

SpectreRob750 wrote: In the process of eliminating the EPA vacuum system, but my fresh oil DOES smell like fuel. What does this mean?

Means Trouble!

More specifically, Carb trouble.

Such as leaking float valve.

Possibly accompanied by an obstructed overflow circuit (where so equipped) in one or more of the carbs.

Excess gasoline is getting past the float valve into the float bowl and then rising into the carb throat, from where the gasoline makes its way into the crankcase and contaminates the oil.

Good Fortune!

For the record, a perfectly functioning float valve won't allow excess gravity-fed gasoline into the float bowl even when gasoline is freely flowing through the petcock.

"Perfectly functioning" means that the pointed tip of the float needle isn't worn or damaged and that the pointed tip interfaces precisely with the orifice in the float seat. And presupposes further that the seat orifice is undamaged, and that there's no crud or grit interfering with the interface of pointed tip into the seat orifice.

To obtain such perfection at the interface, the needle point must be precisely matched to the orifice. Such perfection may require polishing the seat and/or needle tip. And requires pristine cleanliness of these parts.
If necessary, the seat/orifice area may be polished by using a q-tip chucked into a drill.

All the more reason for installation of a good after-market in-line fuel filter.

Where fuel is flowing into the float bowl faster than it's being consumed incident to normal engine operation, and there's no overflow circuit or there's an obstructed overflow circuit, the excess gasoline will keep rising on up into the carb throat, and from there make its way into the crankcase to contaminate the oil.

A perfectly functioning float valve is particularly critical when using carbs not equipped with an overflow circuit, such as Mikuni smoothbore 29s.

A band-aid solution is to assure that a correctly functioning petcock isn't allowing gasoline to flow from the inside the fuel tank while the engine isn't running. This means a correctly functioning manual petcock in the OFF position. Or a correctly functioning vacuum operated petcock in the ON or RES position.

The proper solution is to assure a perfectly functioning float valve. Which disallows excess gasoline into the float bowl regardless of the petcock type, position, condition, function, or existence.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: A band-aid solution is to assure that a correctly functioning petcock isn't allowing gasoline to flow from the inside the fuel tank while the engine isn't running. This means a correctly functioning manual petcock in the OFF position. Or a correctly functioning vacuum operated petcock in the ON or RES position.

I could never keep needle-style float valves operating over the years on various carburetors. They are high-maintenance in my opinion, and a terribly antiquated design and prone to failure. On other carbs I have fitted grose-jet valves and have been pleasantly surprised at their durability.

However, I am too cheap and lazy to try that on four carbs (I usually have to make brass pieces to fit a grose-jet for a different carb model) and so I do use the needle-style on my KZ. The main reason I also use the vacuum petcock band-aid is because I like having that secondary valve for when (not if) one those damn needle-style float valves decides to stick open.

I did forget the pet cot in the on position for a few days...is it possible that this led to the contamination of the oil upon startup thereafter? If so I am going to simply change the oil and start in the off position until all of the excess fuel is burnt off. Does this sound sufficient?

SpectreRob750 wrote: I did forget the pet cot in the on position for a few days...is it possible that this led to the contamination of the oil upon startup thereafter? If so I am going to simply change the oil and start in the off position until all of the excess fuel is burnt off. Does this sound sufficient?

I did forget the pet cot in the on position for a few days...is it possible that this led to the contamination of the oil upon startup thereafter? -- YES

If so I am going to simply change the oil and start in the off position until all of the excess fuel is burnt off. Does this sound sufficient? ---
Would also change the oil filter, AND drain the carb float bowls to remove the excess fuel.
And resolve the leaking float valve issues.

Would assure that all carb overflow circuits (if carbs are so equipped) are clean, clear and fully functional, and that there's no gasoline discharge from any carb overflow at idle rpm.

While the overflow may prevent excess gasoline from rising into the carb throat and getting into the crankcase, running at the overflow level is with fuel level being above spec and thereby causing a too rich mixture.

If the bike at hand had been equipped with functional overflow circuits in all carbs, the crankcase oil would likely have not become fuel-contaminated in the first place.

Good Fortune!

Patton:

Thanks so much for all the help you've given me thus far...truly is appreciated.

You mention resolving the float valve issues, is it safe to assume that there is definitely an issue with them, or should change the oil/filter and drain the float bowls and see if there are any issues at that point? I would hate to take the carbs back out if not necessary...also just FYI there are no electrical connectors on the carbs so I don't think that I have the circuits you are referring to.

Thanks again!

Not an electrical circuit, but a fuel delivery path(circuit)through the extremely small passages in the carb and jets.

SpectreRob750 wrote: ...You mention resolving the float valve issues, is it safe to assume that there is definitely an issue with them, or should change the oil/filter and drain the float bowls and see if there are any issues at that point? I would hate to take the carbs back out if not necessary...also just FYI there are no electrical connectors on the carbs so I don't think that I have the circuits you are referring to....

Am uncertain whether the carbs at hand have an overflow circuit.

Such circuits aren't electrical. An overflow circuit basically consist of a vertical tube inside the float bowl allowing gasoline to escape when the level gets high enough to reach the top of the tube.
Gasoline entering at top of the tube passes down through the tube and out through an exterior nipple on the bottom of the float bowl.

If there's no nipple on the bottom of the float bowl, there's likely not an overflow circuit in the carb.

Where there's no overflow nipple (usually with a hose attached which is routed to exit underneath the bike) there's no visibly escaping gasoline to indicate an overflow condition inside the carb.

Without an overflow circuit, proper operation of the float valve may be determined by performing the clear tube test. Such test will demonstrate whether the correct fuel level is being maintained by the float valve.
The clear-tube test doesn't require removal of the carbs.

If the clear-tube test indicates a malfunctioning float valve, there are other possible remedies that don't require removal of the carbs.



Good Fortune!